You know those sessions where a bomb wave darkens the horizon and everyone in the lineup is out of position? If you’re lucky, it happens a lot. If you’re even luckier, you just happen to be the only one sitting far enough outside to scratch for the horizon, then spin and go just in time. Then, the whole lineup watches as you, the luckiest one among them, flies down the best set wave of the day. Such was the case for Koby Abberton at Keramas in the opening scene of the video you see above.
“It was a good size at Keramas during this session, but every 30 minutes or so a bigger one would turn up, like the bomb in the opening scene,” wrote Surfers of Bali. “Even though it was bigger than the rest, the lineup didn’t see exactly how big and wide it was until they paddled over the smaller wave in front — at which point most of them hurriedly make for the shoulder. Koby Abberton was out far enough to get into position fortunately, making no mistake and threading one of the bigger waves of the day.”
