Jamie O’Brien does something most of us need to do more of: spends his days looking for ways to have fun. Oh, we used to all be like that, back when we were little kids with snot running out of our noses, melted popsicles on our chins, and grass stains on our knees, but somewhere along the way that all changed. For the most part, adults spend their days doing something they don’t actually like all that much in exchange for a few pennies so they can eat and keep a roof over their heads. And if they’re lucky, they can save enough of those pennies for a week-long surf trip once a year where they can go back to their roots and spend their days looking for ways to have fun. That’s a little bleak, isn’t it?
Two other people who are talented enough on a surfboard to spend their days doing fun things are John John Florence and Kelly Slater, both of which Jamie O’Brien met up with for his most recent vlog. JJF smashed Jamie in a paddle race and Kelly tried his hand at the Waimea river wave (a poor version of it, but the Waimea river wave nonetheless). And you know what else they did? They found a few ways to have fun.
