J-Bay is a world class wave on its day. Even when it’s not on its day, it’s pretty dang perfect. But when you’re in the midst of a contest, the fun can get sucked out of surfing — and fun is what surfing is all about.
That old saying, “the best surfer in the world is the one having the most fun” is supposed to mean that it doesn’t matter how well you surf, what matters is how much fun you’re having. But in a strange way, when you’re having more fun, you generally surf better. Which is why this episode of Kelly Slater: Lost Tapes focusses on how Kelly fights to clear his mind and focus on the the fun of surfing. After a back injury, though, that’s a bit of a challenge.
