"If people step out of line, they need to be told the deal." Photo: Skye Nacel
Author’s Note: This article began when a good friend (who happens to be a writer) and I got into a friendly debate about surfer’s localism, over-crowding, land encroachment, etc. She’d read a blog post by a surfer who had taken his kid out to surf in what he thought was a “safe zone.” I guess some other surfers in the area didn’t make it easy to enjoy surf time with his son there. He was surprised when he found himself thinking “didn’t everyone get on a board for the first time?”. She wrote me about the story and asked my thoughts on why some surfers felt it was OK to be less than accepting these days of novices but also to an unsuspecting experienced surfer just trying to teach his kid how to get a wave. She thought my response was surprising and a bit provocative (in a good way, of course!) but I was skeptical thinking it would just “stir the pot.” But maybe that’s OK every now and then. Keep an open mind if you need to. Mahalo!
Aloha is great. There’s nothing better. The simplicity of a pair of shorts, a board, a wave and a smile can be nirvana. But there’s a vibe out there that can challenge the best of what surfing is all about. Some folks who don’t understand the frustrations of being in a line up full of inexperienced mayhem may call it a form of elitism. In our quest for simplicity, and often our inability to find it, maybe we forget our manners from time to time, even with each other. After all, we all got up on a board for the first time at some point. Taking the time to learn about the culture, etiquette and technique of surfing is a pretty important prerequisite. Of course, WE get it and we don’t like it when others don’t. We try not to make things complicated but I’m reading some pretty harsh stuff coming from my compadres on the water. We are privileged, not elite. But there have to be rules – a code of behavior that keeps the vitriol to a minimum while at the same time trying to stay safe and keep others safe.
Trying surfing does not grant people a free pass on blindly paddling out to any break of their liking, ignorant of other’s safety. When this happens, it causes some serious problems. Much of the problem, like everything in this world, is that there are too many people everywhere.
The anger stems from spots where the crowds are just insane. And they keep growing and growing and growing. When will it stop? How many and how much can mother ocean hold? We can argue all we want. I surf mostly alone or with friends of my choosing in an area not far from those growing crowds.
Surfing around tons of other people is rarely a fun situation. It causes tension and stress. Imagine that? Being stressed while surfing? But it happens, and that’s why a few surfing buddies and me choose to steer clear of the bullshit. Out west they don’t have that option much anymore, depending on the area. Over-development is a scourge of the coastline, trashing breaks, and transforming jetties into yacht yards.
There’s the surfing that the media portrays, then the surfing world that is each and every one of our realities. It’s what you make it. The anger won’t stop so I steer clear of it. However, if people step out of line, they need to be told the deal. A case in point. An elderly woman walking in York comes to a point in the sidewalk that was completely impassable due to some visiting Canadian surfer occupying said area with tons of gear sprawled out. The woman has to turn around and walk onto the road into oncoming traffic with a VERY narrow space and comes close to getting whacked. I happened to see this story unfold. These particular Canadians either seemed to think it was funny or didn’t care. Well, I cared. I walked up and approached these six guys and started clearing the area. Boards bags, wetsuits, everything I could kick aside was relocated off the sidewalk. “Howdy fellas, nice day for a walk down the sidewalk, eh?” I winked and kept walking. They quickly moved their surfboards to avoid them being kicked over the rocks because that was next. That woman lived here her whole life and these guys…well,you get the point. Chivalrous? Gallant? Yeah, and I’d do it again.
Often, there is an utter lack of concern for fellow surfers by many and we see that often with folks new to the scene. There are codes of conduct, etiquette and unwritten rules that exist. Does that mean you have to follow them? No, of course not, it’s a free country but it will help your chances of not being on the receiving end of a local’s short fuse.
This is a complicated issue. There’s nothing more exciting than learning to surf or seeing someone else do it. It’s pure and innocent and that person will make both himself and the world a better place for at least that one day with the stoke garnered from the experience. Hopefully, their guide, friend, surf lesson outfit, or the shop where they bought the board will give them a lowdown.
This is the way life is. Sometimes, unfortunately, we do cause the problem and it’s up to all of us to find a solution – not just about surfing, but the environment and the people who impact it or are impacted by it. We are caretakers, not owners. There’s lots to be angry about for sure, but we can encourage a bit of understanding and share our knowledge as surfers and human beings to not trip over each other by stepping on each other. We’ll all be better for it.
