Picture a shot of a sweeping landscape as a perfectly color-graded cliff-meets-ocean horizon line, which then cuts to black and the words: “With a coastline of nearly 2,000 miles, Ireland is recognized as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Fifty years ago it was completely unknown.” Cut then to a thick, glassy wave reeling down the line at some mysterious location. Basically, the typical makings of any promising surf film.
The film, which first premiered at the Belfast Festival, recently became available for viewing on PBS and World Channel stations in North America on April 9. Keep It A Secret is actually a historical documentary (aren’t things cooler when you know they really happened?) investigating the origins of Irish surfing. “Nobody thought Ireland had waves like California or Hawaii. So, why should there be anyone surfing?” Roger Steadman asks. Turns out, at the time, there wasn’t, making it a surfer’s paradise.
If the fact that it’s a historical documentary doesn’t immediately entice you, perhaps the words of Kevin Naughton will. Naughton is a legendary surf explorer, often known for his journalism work for SURFER in the ’70s and ’80s alongside Craig Peterson. Perhaps you’ve seen this famous cover photo, or read one of countless articles proclaiming the duo to be “the greatest surf adventurers of all time.”
The two had some very daring travels, and according to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, “two of their journeys were listed in SURFER’s 1995 article, “The 10 Greatest Surf Trips of All Time.”’ So, Naughton is probably a good bet for someone to ask about good waves.
And in the trailer for Keep It A Secret, Naughton claims that “the waves there were as good as waves I’ve surfed in Central America or anywhere else in the world, but there were no crowds… I mean, nobody! Not even surfers!”
Besides the dreamy wave visuals from cinematographer Kev Smith, the storyline is striking, too: the film is self-described as recounting the story of how, “In 1972, every international sporting event in Ireland was cancelled, except for one.” Because of the violent political strife between Northern Ireland and The Republic of Ireland, “the only group of athletes bold enough to risk traveling… were surfers.” While perhaps the danger is not like a traditional surf film, it’s still very real and maybe even more complex than classic survivalist storylines.
History lovers and surfers alike can revel in the glory of how a singular pursuit can have meaning in the midst of troubling times: bringing people together, discovering a new appreciation for the natural world, and inspiring others to get out and see it for themselves.
The production team, consisting of Sean Duggan, Jay Keuper, Kev Smith, and Sabine Krayenbuhl, has managed to make a film that also asks questions related to matters greater than surfing itself. The ethics of secret spots and staking claim to waves comes up throughout the film, something that is an ongoing topic of discussion amongst many people, not just surfers, far and wide.
At any rate, nowadays, Ireland is a popular surf desto, with the likes of Chris Burkard documenting its rugged beauty. But if you’ve ever wondered what it was like before the crowds and the media infatuation, tune in to Keep It A Secret to take a trip back to the ‘70s. If nothing else, you’ll be amazed at how empty this magical place once was.
