Big wave surfing is a scary prospect. Surfing is already a passion project. It can take you away from friends, family, make you miss work, get fired, and spend all your money. But most of the time, that passion project involves waves of a little less serious consequence. If you’re a surfer out at Jaws of Nazaré, you’ve got a passion for something on a different scale.
With that passion comes the knowledge that training is key. And while the training for safety part of big wave surfing has only become common knowledge in the last little while, people are taking it very seriously.
With that said, however, there is nothing one can truly do to prepare for the beat downs that come with surfing 60-foot waves. A friend rolling your around in a pool simply doesn’t compare. But knowing what your body can handle is extraordinarily important in those life or death situations because panic ain’t your friend.
Kai Lenny, Lucas Chumbo, Ian Walsh, Justine Dupont, and a bunch of others met up in Hawaii recently and figured out some creative (and terrifying) ways to reenact the biggest wipeout of their lives.
