Kai Lenny spends a lot of his time doing two things: chasing big waves or surfing big waves. Most of his life is dedicated to the singular pursuit of being the best big wave surfer in the world, and he’s well aware that in order to become that — if he hasn’t already, that is — he needs to spend more time doing it than anyone else. That’s why when a swell event occurs, Lenny makes absolutely sure he’s there for it, whether it’s Nazaré or Maverick’s. He knows what makes a “good day” at some of the most famous big wave joints, so when he says it was “the best day in ten years”, it really was the best day in ten years. And that’s exactly what he said about the day you see above.
