If you’re reading this, there’s a very good chance you’ve been caught inside. It’s part of surfing; something as inevitable as the passing of time. It’s generally nothing major — more of a pain in the butt than anything else — and after a few minutes of paddling and duck diving and duck diving and paddling until your shoulders are gassed and you taste copper, the set is over and you’re back outside. Getting caught inside at Jaws, however… that’s a different story.
On December 2, Jaws roared to life. It was a very big day, early in a swell that would prove to be one of the best in recent memory. The day after the video you see above was taken, Kai Lenny and Billy Kemper caught back-to-back bombs. Everything turned out great. The swell came and went, some people caught the best waves of their lives, and no one got hurt. But Kai’s GoPro recorded what it’s like to get caught inside at one of the biggest waves on earth, and it’s etched in our memories deeper than pretty much anything else.
