When early big wave pioneers first paddled out at big Sunset Beach and Waimea Bay, the modus operandi was survival. Granted, inflatable vests, jet ski assist, and leashes were yet to become ubiquitous in the scene, and equipment wasn’t quite as refined as it is today. But, the goal then was to simply go straight on the biggest wave possible without injury and recant the feat later over a few beers with friends.
Not to say that survival isn’t still the end goal of big wave surfing, but now some of the subgenre’s most celebrated athletes are reading waves as they would smaller surf – putting their boards on rail and finding barrel sections that are as big as two-story houses.
Ask around and one name is on everyone’s shortlist when it comes to big wave surfing’s vanguard: the inimitable Kai Lenny. The man has had countless standout performances on the Big Wave Tour and paddle-in sessions. And when conditions proved too unruly and the World Surf League put the Jaws Challenge on hold late last year, Kai pulled out his tow board and put on one of the wildest displays of tow surfing we’ve seen in recent memory – complete with a two-story elevator drop for good measure.
Whereas big wave pioneers flirted with death, Lenny seems to laugh in its face.
“Best Big Wave season so far?” asks Lenny about his season highlight reel above. “I think so! It is exciting to know I am only just starting to scratch the surface of what is possible.”
Just scratching the surface, huh? If that’s the case, we can’t wait to see what the man does in the next few years.
