First Point Malibu is arguably one of Southern California’s most frustrating places to surf. The appeal is clear – a reeling cobblestone right point break that works best in the summertime and early fall when the water’s tepid. What more could you want? The problem is Malibu’s eclectic lineup eschews the finer points of surfing’s unwritten rules. Complete anarchy ensues.
And yet, Joel Tudor remains one of Malibu’s most pious devotees. More than anyone, Joel understands that crowd navigation comes with the territory on a good day at First Point, and in that vein, we’d like to call your attention to the 2:10 mark in the short above.
On a head-high wave, Joel is styling down the line only to have an interloper come from out of frame, flying over the falls behind him. That Joel remained calm, narrowly avoided being skewered, and continued down the line as if nothing had happened is thanks to a keen awareness acquired from countless hours in the Malibu lineup: a sixth sense for potential drop-ins – and potential injury.
The edit above has that and more. A fine watch in its entirety, shot up and down the Southern California coast from late summer 2018 to late winter 2019, featuring Joel and Devon Howard, among others.
