Derek Rabelo surfing Pipeline. Photo: Bruno Lemos | Liquid Eye
How’s this for a story? Brazilian kid starts surfing on his local break at 17 years old. Within a year and a half he’s charging well overhead Pipe. One final detail – he’s also been blind from birth.
That’s the tabloid version of the Derek Rabelo story, one of the most amazing tales to emerge from the surfing world in recent years. The longer version includes friendships and surf trips with the likes of Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, and Tom Curren; a grueling training regime; a meteoric rise to fame that saw relationships tested and life lessons learned; and an unshakeable belief in an impossible dream – to surf a barrel at Pipeline.
The entire, inspirational story is told in Bryan Jennings’ pitch perfect movie, Beyond Sight. During the film, Derek credits his achievement to his strong Christian faith. But it’s a story that speaks to all of us, no matter what our beliefs. If you’ve ever felt scared when you paddled out, had a dream you thought was impossible or even if you just love surfing then Beyond Sight is for you.
Photo: Bruno Lemos | Liquid Eye
Last Tuesday, Derek was in town to promote the movie and I jumped at the chance to do an interview. The Welsh contingent were keen to take Derek for a traditional local meal – a.k.a. a curry – so I caught up with him between poppadums and a chicken korma to talk about his amazing journey so far.
Also present at the interview was legendary surf photographer and filmmaker Bruno Lemos. Bruno was the main videographer on Beyond Sight and has played a huge part in Derek’s success, acting as a mentor, coach, and, tonight, translator when Derek needed to further elaborate his points.
Ben Martin: I started by asking him how his trip around Europe had been so far.
Derek Rabelo: I really love being here in Europe. I’ve had the opportunity to meet different people in different places, to surf different waves. I surfed Hossegor with my friend Jeremy Flores, Zarautz in Spain, but my best session was in Nazare.
Bruno interjects here to mention how Derek had surfed with another famous blind surfer, Aitor Francesca (aka Gallo) while in Zaurutz. Derek smiles at the memory.
I loved meeting him and spending time with him; to have the opportunity to share the same wave.
You’ve met so many people on your journey over the last two years. Who has been the most inspiring person for you?
Everyone has been really special you know. I believe God puts the right person at the right place at the right time to help me on my journey. But I really like Kelly Slater. I’m cheering for him to win the world title this year.
Even though he’s up against a Brazilian!?
Yes!
Having watched the movie it’s easy to understand. Derek forged a special relationship with Slater, whose advice was invaluable in helping Derek achieve his goal.
Derek and some other guy at Pipeline. Photo: Bruno Lemos | Liquid Eye
How about your own surfing? What is your experience of riding a wave – from paddling in to actually riding the wave?
I always have someone with me. Either a coach or a friend. They tell me that the wave is coming, and then they tell me if it’s a right or a left. After that I’m on my own. I ride the wave through feeling and hearing the wave around me.
How about just being in the ocean? Duck diving for example?
I can hear the wave coming towards me, and after practice I know the right time to do a duck dive.
And what about Pipeline? Did it actually feel different to other waves?
Yeah – totally! The feeling was really amazing! Different – so much power!
What about the fear factor? We all get scared in the water at some point – how do you cope with that?
Sometimes I have a little bit of fear, but I don’t care about this. I just trust in God. I believe he’s guiding me and making me capable to go and surf and overcome all these challenges.
And what does the future hold? You’ve achieved your goal and had the most amazing journey – what’s next?
I just want to keep surfing, to go to new places and surf good waves. I want to share my life story with other people – I believe it’s a gift that God gave me to help other people and I want to share it as much as I can.
Derek getting after it on the river wave, Eisbach. Photo: Bruno Lemos | Liquid Eye
And how about other waves?
I want to surf Jaws! I think it will be the biggest feeling.
Derek’s face lights up into the biggest smile I’ve seen all night. Bruno, looking a little concerned, interjects again: “Maybe we’ll wait for the right day – a smaller, glassy day with the right crew. He’s very good in the ocean and we’ve done some tow in sessions before. Maybe we can surf the left, it’s a bit more forgiving, because the right, you know it’s…”
Whatever — left, right… I don’t mind!
One last question. What would your message be to anyone who feels they can’t surf but would like to?
People need to believe that nothing is impossible. To trust God, believe in themselves because everyone has a gift. Just discover what your talent is and put it into practice.
Derek with Koa and Makua Rothman on the North Shore. Photo: Bruno Lemos | Liquid Eye
I have to admit I was a little nervous before meeting Derek. This was a guy who’s spent the last year hanging out with the likes of Slater and Jeremy Flores – was he really going to be interested in talking to me?
Turns out he was, and everyone else as well. Derek was humble and polite. He had time for everyone that wanted to speak with him, and a lot of people did. The sight of Katie – a young blind girl who’s learning to surf with local charity Surfability – smiling like it was Christmas was indicative of the kind of joy Derek and his story must be spreading the world over. It’s near impossible for any sighted surfer to imagine what it must be like to surf blind, but next time you’re in the water try closing your eyes for even 10 seconds. Then imagine taking off on a wave at Pipe.
The challenges Derek’s faced and overcome, the spirit in which he’s done it and the pure stoke he has for surfing are all inspirational in the true sense of the word. Long may his amazing journey continue.
Want to learn more about Derek Rabelo’s journey? Be sure to check out Beyond Sight. For more of Bruno Lemos’s photos, visit LemosImages.com.
