When it comes to surfing slabs, a surfer needs a to have a certain attitude. It’s a mix of commitment and just a flat-out willingness to pay to play. The surfers who have it came by it honestly. It’s not a thing that can be taught; rather, it needs to be learned over time. It can only be learned the hard way. To get good at surfing slabs, a surfer needs to surf slabs a lot. Surfing slabs a lot, of course, means falling a lot. And falling a lot on slabs is a recipe for a whole lot of pain. Luckily, Jamie O’Brien is willing and entirely able.
This particular slab exists, like most of the waves on the North Shore, just down the road from Jamie’s house. Growing up there, it’s likely that he’s pretty familiar with how the place works, but that doesn’t mean it’s any less dangerous. So, with a handful of friends along for the ride, they decided to give it a go. And since it’s not really a wave for the faint of heart, they were the only ones.
“There’s not too many opportunities to surf places on the North Shore by yourself,” Jamie said. And while that may be true, Rubber Duckies is empty because the entry fee can be a pound of flesh.
Afterwards, as Jamie does, he paddled out for a quick session at fairly big Pipeline and washed off the debris from that sketchy little slab.
