Firing Pipeline (he went straight) and thumping Waimea, two of Jamie’s favorite things. Photos: YouTube//Screenshot
“This is why it’s going to be a good session: we’re going to get pounded. We’re going to get worked.” So says Jamie O’Brien from his garage as he’s choosing a board to surf Waimea shorebreak on. He’d just returned from a session at absolutely firing Pipeline, but it wasn’t quite enough to satiate his wave-riding desires, so he decided to pack up a soft top and head to the Bay.
Jamie is a veteran of Waimea’s shorebreak, which is not for the faint of heart. So much so that he likes to make it harder for himself by riding little twin fins with questionable fin plug screws.
“I’m missing a fin screw thing,” he says from the sand while waxing up. “I need it, otherwise this session is going to be straight pin drops and all wipeouts.”
While he wasn’t entirely wrong — he did pull into a few — for the most part, he was right. But he did finish off with a broken board, so there’s that, at least. Because a broken board generally means you were attempting to do something fun, and that’s the name of the game.
