It rains a lot in Hawaii. And recently, Koa Smith and Jamie O’Brien used that rain to surf the Waimea River wave.
When it rains in Hawaii, it pours. It’s a pleasant rain, though, warm like a shower, the petrichor mingling with the scent of hibiscus flowers that are constantly in bloom. The sky will darken for a brief moment, unleash a torrent, then clear, leaving the roads steaming in the sun as the squall moves along its merry way. Rain is a pleasure on the Islands, until it’s not.
All rivers lead to the sea, as they say, and the Waimea River is no different. The rain falling in the Waimea Valley makes its way into the river, which in turn makes its way down to Waimea Bay. Waimea Bay, of course, is known for it’s giant waves, but when the river is full to bursting, a little shovelful of sand here and a little bit of elbow grease there can create a wave that’s not always around.
Jamie O’Brien is no stranger to that wave, and neither is Koa Smith. But on the day in the video above, the Waimea River wave was a little better and a little bigger than usual. We’ve seen it big, certainly, but never quite this big. And everyone who took part will certainly have it on their mind for a long time to come.
