Over the years, I’ve done a few trips to Nicaragua. The first was simply a quick trip over the border from Costa Rica so I could stay in the country for a few extra weeks and try and rid myself of an ear infection that was threatening to take my sanity. This was back around a decade ago, and the roads were dusty, the air smelled of poverty, and everyone seemed so happy. Lying in a hammock looking out over Lake Nicaragua and Ometepe, I fell in love with the country. It was perfect. The second trip was a few years later. I arrived in Managua, ate some chicken and drank a sweating beer in a bar down a stinking alley, and settled back to watch the crowd, taking in the changes the country had undergone in just a few short years. Although the roads were paved and the air smelled less like poverty, the people were still happy and dancing. That, I think, is Nicaragua’s most alluring draw–even after decades of civil war and the ensuing effort to pull themselves out of the rubble, the people still dance.
As far as surf trips go, Nicaragua is nearly unbeatable. Along the southern coastline, an offshore breeze blows almost 300 + days a year. Any kind of wave imaginable is within reach: reeling points, punchy little beach breaks, slabby barrels, and playful, long walls. And because of that, the place is, little by little, becoming something of a must-see on the surfing public’s check list. But it’s got a long way to go before it can be considered crowded. It is, however, only a matter of time. Waves as good as Nicaragua’s will never remain uncrowded–so you should get it while the getting’s good.
And if you’re going to get it, you need to stay in the right place. If you’re taking a surf trip, there’s a lot more to it than the waves. Countries are big places, after all–and with Nicaragua’s wealth of waves is only valuable if you’re able to get to them. In the middle of one of the most surf-laden parts of the entire country is the Popoyo Region and a resort called Two Brothers. From February through October, southerly swells wrap off storms in the Pacific, making their way towards the sleepy little village. Two Brothers has all the comforts of home. The villas are built with traditional materials by the locals. The villas are on a 27-acre private estate, overlooking both the Pacific and a property full of papaya, mangos, limes, watermelon, and plantains.
One of the coolest things about the resort is how it’s run. Robert and Susan Gregory own and operate the place, and limit the amount of guests, avoiding crowded lineups and lessening the impact of tourism on the area. Their goal is to “plant, preserve and provide for the wildlife and habitat on their property, while creating beautiful architecture that does not draw away from the natural beauty of the land.”
But let’s talk waves. Whether you’re looking for mellow ones or skull crackers, chances are very good that you’ll find them. Two Brothers has surf transfers by boat or vehicle every day, so if there’s a wave too far to paddle to, you’ll be on it.
A typical day in the Popoyo area sees waves around shoulder high to head high. And like I said, there’s a 90% chance that the wind will be offshore, so barrels are far from rare. And if you’re in the mood for something a little bigger, there’s the Outer Reef, which holds up to double and triple overhead.
But of course, there will be times when you’re just plain surfed out. That’s the beauty of a good surf trip–surfing so much you can’t surf anymore… at least for a few hours. Two Brothers has its own 28-foot panga, which is used for fishing and whale-watching. In Las Salinas, you can bask in the hotsprings, in Catarina or Masaya, you can wander through a local market and see that part of Nicaragua that’s even better than the waves: the people that call the country home. In the last decade, Nicaragua has gone from a far-flung surf trip dream to a veritable jewel in the passport.
Want to #GoThere? Book a trip with Waterways Surf Adventures.
