Regardless of age, is there anyone better at this? Photo: Heff//WSL
Park anywhere in San Clemente, Calif. these days and you’re bound to spot a classic “Old Guys Rule” sticker on the back of a longboarder’s car. It’s funny because someone has to root for old people, right? Surely, there’s nothing better to do after, say, 40. Let’s slap an “Old Guys Rule” sticker on the back of the truck, ditch the shortboard, and surf a more mellow break.
But why should our lives be reduced to youth, middle age, and recollection? Kelly Slater’s most recent win at Pipeline proves that maybe, with a little reshaping from the competitive outdoor sports industry, they don’t need to be. Surfers are always looking for the longest ride. It’s about time we apply that mindset to surf careers, too. And maybe our own lives?
But first, why did Slater’s win take people by storm? In short, because it was both personal and universal. Days before his 50th birthday, winning the Billabong Pro Pipeline, his victory marked not only his 56th tour win, and a win against competitors less than half his age, but also a win for the hopeful future of sports — and athletes — everywhere.
The word athlete doesn’t exactly conjure images of longevity. In fact, it’s most commonly associated with other words like “youth” and “intensity.” This isn’t without due reason: we just watched kids as young as 15 compete in the 2022 Winter Olympics.
But there’s a darker side to careers that rely so heavily on peak performance during one’s youth: according to research, the average professional athlete retires before 30, and their average career lasts less than six years. This timeframe puts pressure on them, mentally, emotionally, and financially.
Well, fine, you might say. They chose to be professional athletes. It’s a crazy job. They don’t want a normal life. But then again, we expect a lot of these people, and we get a lot out of them, too. They give up everything to pursue their passion, often sacrificing traditional career paths, family time, or even personal pursuits.
Professional athletes inspire us, and the whole world comes together to rally for them when they compete. They should be able to expect a little more out of their careers, and with improvements in technology and a better understanding of human physiology, we’re seeing that it’s possible to extend successful athletic careers into middle age.
Also, successful aging is considered a public policy priority. Who better to look to than those pushing the limits of age to the max? Showing us that old guys — and gals – can ride longboards — or shortboards. Professionally, or recreationally, for decades.
Recently, wins from Slater, snowboarders Lindsey Jacobellis and Nick Baumgartner, and especially quarterback-god Tom Brady, remind us that it’s possible to have successful, fulfilling careers long past 30.
Not only is it possible, but there are actually benefits to being an older athlete. Sports that utilize both physical and mental skills as opposed to just brute strength see less of a drastic decline in performance as athletes age (see road cycling).
Surfing, for this reason, actually has the potential to see better results from older, more experienced athletes. Slater even noted his “vast experience” as a factor in his recent win. Larger mental databases and expertise lend themselves well to higher scores when competing. Wave reading is a tactical skill. Adaptability, knowledge of the ocean, navigating currents, familiarity with conditions, comfort with one’s board, line literacy, and self-awareness are all skills that only improve with age.
In other words, it’s true that your paddle strength may decline as you get older. But if you know where to position yourself, you shouldn’t be relying solely on your paddle strength, anyway.
So, how does an industry so focused on physical performance allow for athletes to consider longevity along with everything else they already have to focus on? Looking to successful aging strategies, the obvious takeaways are to eat healthy, learn while moving, create art, meditate, and keep a close support system (oh, and of course wear sunscreen). But we’re talking about athletes, so we can assume some of those are covered by trainers, nutritionists, and managers.
But what about the ones that aren’t, like stress, sleep, and social support? These less talked about aspects of a healthy life are often neglected, yet commonly faced, while on tour.
In a recent interview with The Surfer’s Journal, The Beastie Boys’ Mike D discusses the intense stressors and constant stimulation of touring, comparing the pro surfing lifestyle to being in a rock band. Apparently, being a surfer can be as stressful— and as unhealthy – as being a rock star. He would know.
If the culture of touring changes to allow for most of the same excitement without the overstimulation and severe lack of sleep athletes currently face, we may see stories like Slater’s crop up more and more. Many athletes in board sports are making a few small tweaks to their daily routines, such as incorporating meditation and yoga. I think it’s making a drastic difference. Meditation can take as little as two minutes a day, and breath work is not only the easiest way to tap into the nervous system, but it’s also beneficial for the stresses of competition.
What does this mean for all of us? Ultimately, people who keep working, and moving, farther into their lifespans age more gracefully than those who don’t. These days, it seems our favorite athletes are able to do it a lot longer. Which is inspiring to watch. And doesn’t it make you want to play hard for as long as you can, too?
