Editor’s Note: I contacted Tom Lowe after watching In Winter’s Arms, which is one of those rare surf videos that leaves a real, lasting impression. I wanted to hear about about surfing in Ireland from someone who was such an integral part of its beginnings. What follows is his story. See more from Tom here. – Alex
” I was lucky and dedicated enough to be part of it all from the beginning.” Tom Lowe showing that dedication.
My first trip to Ireland took me longer than you might think, considering the type of waves I love: the uncrowded landscapes and how close it is to where I grew up.
I knew all the boys before leaving on that first mission. The bodyboarders that were living there were all mates from home, and most of us grew up together – Mickey Smith, Jack Johns, Dan and Steff, to name a few – so I’d heard a lot about the place: cool vibes with heavy waves.
I called Mickey up out the blue before leaving, and although I wasn’t that tight with him at the time, he just said to come kip on his floor and he would show us around for a while.
We were so scared and amped driving over thinking of the big waves to come. It was a classic trip from the start, three of us loaded into our old school Opel Cadet, big wave guns on the roof and no idea what was in store for us.
The first day we got there the waves were pumping. I didn’t read charts or travel on swells back then, and I hadn’t a clue where we were going, but I knew something big was going to happen. That feeling I’d become only too familiar with was there, bubbling inside of me: that fire, that amp, that buildup of energy… whatever you want to call it, it was there.
We all met at this secret spot and it was like nothing I’d ever seen. It was so much heavier than anything I’d ever experienced. Only bodyboarders had ever surfed the place until that day. We got our boards sorted and paddled out. For me it was a surf I’ll never forget. I was far from ripping, that’s for sure, but I went for anything and everything that came my way. I got carried away, getting the heaviest barrels of my life to date.
There are two spots in particular that have changed my life: Riley’s and Aliens. Not just to surf at, but just to simply be at. They’re not just surf spots. They’ve taught me everything I know about surfing heavy waves, they’ve taught me about life, and they’ve changed the way I look at the world. Those waves bring me back to how I felt when I was a child. Free. Pure. I’m not a great writer, so I can’t find the words to explain this, but Ireland is everything to me.
I met Fergal Smith out at Aliens in a 10ft swell. It was intimidating to say the least. We were all shitting ourselves, but I got my head down and got some rides I’d only dreamed of getting.
Fergal is different than anybody I’ve ever met. He’s so dedicated, and he has this intense energy about him that drives him to be the best surfer I know in heavy waves.
Then there’s Rileys. Mickey has searched the coastline for years finding new waves, and discovering countless gems in the middle of nowhere. One day he stumbled on the gem of all gems. He called me up to go check it out later that day. I’d never towed before that day. Sets started pulsing through that were too heavy to think about paddling, so I grabbed the rope on my knees trying to crawl to my feet. A full on kook, I really had no idea what I was doing. I got slung into a solid six-foot thick mutant thing. Moments after letting go, I was on the foam ball in survival mode. Making that wave was a completely different feeling than anything I’d ever experienced.
It’s hard to get across what Ireland means to our crew of mates who dedicate our lives to that place. So many pro surfers fly in and out with no thought other than to get the next cover shot or next new movie clip.
We all get put in an awkward position being the locals, having to tell people to chill out in the lineup, to share and respect the waves. Don’t put pressure on every wave that comes in, shouting “who’s going!” and pushing everybody too deep. Don’t get pissed off when you don’t get wave of the day.
Instead I wish everybody who comes to visit Ireland, comes with the same respect and appreciation that we did on our first trip.
I was lucky and dedicated enough to be part of it all in the beginning. For people who want to come see beautiful Ireland, and surf the waves that we’ve spent thousands of near-hypothermic hours finding, take a second to think about the place you’re visiting and you will be always greeted with laughs and smiles.
