How did it feel to receive those two XXL awards?
Amazing, truly amazing. The XXL awards are an amazing night for the surfers to get together and be recognized. To win it is just crazy and just puts the biggest smile on my face. I’ll pass away a happy old man.
What do you think about the current state of the Big Wave World Tour especially now that the ASP’s top 34 can compete?
I’m hoping for good things ahead; more recognition for the surfers, more money so guys can make a living and better-organized events. It all takes time, so my expectations are low.
Do you think we will start seeing the likes of Kelly Slater and others in these competitions?
If the stars align, the swell is pumping and Kelly is amped, he will be there. Look at the Eddie. That is a role model for how events need to run. I think it’s safe to say Kelly is stoked to be doing that event every time it runs. If we bring up the other events to that caliber, we will see him and other big names wanting to participate. That all takes time and money. One day, I’m sure it will be there.
You have a “normal” job with Reef on top of being a Big Wave Heavyweight (which is pretty impressive in it’s own right). How do you balance both of those things along with your family life?
Ahhh, it’s not easy. Family comes first and my wife and son are really supportive. Luckily, the waves aren’t huge that often so I can focus on work with the majority of my time. It’s really hard to balance it, but I keep managing to find my way through it. I have to be selective in what I want to do. I don’t travel very much internationally because I’m traveling all over Northern California managing sales, my accounts and work is just cranking. I’m lucky that Mav’s is in my backyard. When that is on, I’m there. With my job, I can usually plan work around a big swell.
How supportive is Reef of your big wave endeavors? When a purple blob pops up on the swell charts, is it easy to call your boss and say, “Hey, I’m going surfing?”
They are very supportive, but it does get complicated. I do have goals to achieve. Reef is a public company so the bar is set pretty high.
How long are we going to see Shawn Dollar surfing massive waves?
I really don’t know and I struggle with this question. I love it, but my wave from Mav’s in 2010 and Cortez last year really changed me. I can really relate to Greg Noll and say that it’s just not the same anymore. Those rides were so amazing. I’m healthier and surfing better than ever, so It’s hard to walk away with all the opportunity that is coming. I think I have a few years and then I’ll walk away from it satisfied. Who knows though.
Something Shane Dorian talks about a lot is how important it is for him to come home to his family. He’s even gone as far as to say, “I can’t wait till I don’t want to chase big waves anymore and I can just stay home and surf with my family.” From what I gather, you’re a pretty big family guy. Is it tough to risk your life knowing you have them to come home to? Do you ever decide that a risk isn’t worth the chance of not coming home?
Before I paddle out, I picture myself touching the shore again, calling my wife to tell her I’m okay and I’ll be home. I’m weighing this every day. It’s a shitty selfish question to keep doing it. I truly can’t wait till I’m done and stop. I’m just not done yet. The stress is overwhelming at times; I plan on being an old man and there with my family with grand kids. Every big wave surfer is dealing with this at some level.
What kind of legacy do you want to leave behind for the big wave guys coming up after you?
I’d like to leave a legacy of safety and watching out for each other; also of brotherhood and helping each other out. Opening up communication and respect for each other. We are a unit, not individuals.
One of the coolest things I saw all night at the XXL Awards was watching you dedicate your award to Sion Milosky. For the small amount of time I knew of him when he was alive, he was my hero. Heck, he will be forever. He was/is notorious for being a family-first man on top of charging. Is that something you drew inspiration from?
Sion is difficult for me to talk about because his passing really affected and changed my life. I meant what I said at the XXL. That wave is dedicated to him. If he was there, he would have went too. He was a charger and not scared. I’ve learned a lot from him and it scares me because I’m very, very similar to him.
Were you there when Sion passed? How did it affect you? And how do you think it affected big wave surfing as a whole?
I was there and it shattered me. I thought I was invincible. Surfers have realized we need to work together as a unit, not individually.
What can we learn from it?
To watch out for and work together, to have guys dedicated to safety and their eyes on the line up.
