Jack Johnson wrote the song “Cookie Jar” which appears on his album On and On. I think it pretty much sums up today’s society. What happened at the US Open in Huntington Beach is very unfortunate. I’ve read a few response pieces and wanted to weigh in with my my own thoughts.
As human beings, we have to be accountable for our actions. No matter what your belief, there is a quote in the bible where Jesus says “Love one another as I have loved you.” This is relevant in most any human situation. Love breaks down barriers and heals wounds. Love opens up doors and brings cultures closer together. Love is what bonds us with the native people on surf trips to foreign lands.
Our current television shows and media are teaching our youth to lie, cheat, steal, lust after, be materialistic, be classless, and so on.
“I would turn on the TV but it’s so embarrassing,
To see all the other people I don’t know what they mean,
And it was magic at first when they spoke without sound,
But now this world is gonna hurt you better turn that thing down,
Turn it around.”
Some may disagree or label me as being soft, but if our culture was exposed to a more loving, honest, and genuine type of message, we’d be in a better place. The behavior of those involved in the riot videos doesn’t surprise me when today’s culture is purely looking for shock value. Most every tweet, Facebook post and YouTube video are about getting a big laugh or expression out of everyone. “Let’s go viral!” they all shout. What about just loving your neighbor or showing some respect?
Surfing is so much more than this hooplah. In the 14 or so years that I’ve been exposed to surfing, I’ve looked up to the people who inspire me—the people who are out to make an impact and affect others in a positive way. Where’d all the good people go, you ask? You’ll seldom find any of them on TV.
There is a video part that stays with me and reminds me of what surfing is all about. Pop the surf movie “Shelter” into your DVD or VHS and go to the “brothers dwelling in unity” section that begins with Joel Tudor knee-paddling into a small wave. It continues with Joel, Keith Malloy, and Rob Machado trading off and sharing some small longboard waves. It shows the bond that we share through surfing, sharing waves, the stoke that brings us together.
If longboarding is not your thing, put on “FLOW” and see how a drug dealing hippie had his life changed forever and became one of the most iconic surfboard builders of all time, created a legacy of a surf team, became a father figure to both Tom Curren and Kelly Slater, and inspired surfers around the globe.
“But I’m only into bodysurfing,” you say. Grab a copy of “Come Hell or High Water” and watch the love between a father and his son as Don King swims with his autistic son Beau–a movie part that is the most awe-inspiring moment of cinematography and music I have seen in a long time.
These stories and many others are what need to be shared with the youth of today. By watching and supporting “reality” TV, we are supporting what ultimately leads to the classless actions of what happened in Huntington Beach. Resisting these shows won’t heal all problems, but we have to start somewhere.
A little less reality TV and more “One California Day.” Now this is what California is really about!
