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The Inertia

At thirty-two weeks pregnant, I’m still surfing. It helps that the waves have been really good lately and I’ve been busy running Surf With Amigas Surf and Yoga Retreats, so I’ve been at the beach watching good waves every day. I’ve never spent more than two months out of the water (due to a broken foot sustained volcano boarding), so to stop paddling out before my body absolutely tells me it’s time hasn’t even crossed my mind.

I’m primarily riding a 5’8″ Rusty Dwart shaped for my husband, so I’ve got more flotation to help counter balance my extra weight and slower paddling. I use my knees to sink the board and stick my butt in the air to take the pressure off my belly while paddling. It’s not pretty, or very efficient, but it gets me out there and into waves. I avoid late drops because I just can’t get my feet underneath me as quickly, but once I’m on my feet I almost feel normal and sometimes get lost in the moment and forget I’m pregnant.

I plan to keep surfing as long as possible, while listening to my body and ditching the board in favor of fins and a handplane when it becomes too uncomfortable to paddle.

I use my knees to sink the board and stick my butt in the air to take the pressure off my belly while paddling. It's not pretty, or very efficient, but it gets me out there and into waves.

 
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