Tavarua transportation. Photo: Ken Lewis
I was 24 when Jon Roseman, former Tavarua boatman and current Managing Director of Tavarua island resort asked me a question that would change my life. “Would you come down to Fiji and drive boats for me?”
I was caught off guard. “I don’t know, I have a job and girlfriend, I’m not sure if I can break out.” Good lord, I was an idiot.
Lucky for me, a local surfer from La Jolla and experienced Tavarua boatman named Steven Baker heard of my bonehead move and came into the surf shop I worked at to scold me. “It will change your life,” he said. Little did I know that message would stay with me for the rest of my life.
As I surfed that evening at the crowded beach break in front of the shop, I knew he was right. Why not go? In fact, why in the hell had I even second guessed the invitation? Maybe I doubted my ability or was just scared to break out of my routine. Whatever it was, I came in from a dismal surf session and called Roseman right back. Within a few months, I had some money saved, got certified in CPR, and said goodbye to that girlfriend. My life was about to change.
I arrived on Tavarua in January 1995 and stayed for a few months, surfing the best waves of my life and getting to know the beautiful Fijian people. I started to look at life from the perspective of the Fijians, and that was the part that truly changed everything. They are the happiest, sweetest people on Earth and they showed me I didn’t need “things” to truly be happy. To this day I feel more at home sitting around a bowl of kava in the dirt than I do at a dinner party in a rich man’s home.
The old treehouse, January 1995. Photo: Ken Lewis
That was 22 years ago, and while I have since returned as a guest, not a week goes by that I don’t look back and feel fortunate for my time on the island. While mine was only a short term for a boatman, far from the pedigree of legends like Terry Stewart, Steven Baker, and Hans Peterson, I still took a great deal away from the opportunity. It’s still the best job I ever had.
Don’t get your hopes too high of landing this gig, though. The people who get asked to work on Tavarua are a very small group, and the qualifications that lead to somebody being chosen for the role have changed over the years. While ordinary people like you and I can still get the opportunity, guys like Alex Gray, Shane Dorian, and Conner Coffin are just a sample of your competition. Hell, even Kelly Slater has said he wanted to be a boatman.
I’ve been asked countless times by other surfers how they can get that job. So with that, I offer some things to be aware of if you plan to land one of the most coveted jobs on the planet.
You Need Strong People Skills
Local Fijian legends and Tavarua boatmen Isei and Eddie. Photo: Ken Lewis
Having a solid background in customer service and being good with people is key to this job. The guests come first on Tavarua and management wants their boatmen to be able to handle the variety of personalities who spend top dollar to visit. If you can’t stomach middle-aged men on longboards, obnoxious travelers, and braggarts, this may not be the job for you. If you can handle all types of personalities with a smile and focus on being as helpful as possible, then you’ll have success.
Be On Point
The old boatman bure in 1995. That’s my broken 6’10” out front. Photo:Ken Lewis
The term “waterman” always makes me cringe but in this case, it’s no bullshit. Not only do you need to be a great surfer, but knowing the ocean and being trained in all aspects of ocean safety is a must. This isn’t your surf holiday, it’s the guests’ holiday. Many times, the people you are tasked with keeping safe are way under skilled. Your job is to make sure they stay healthy and, occasionally, you may have to save their lives. More than one person has almost lost their life surfing the island’s reefs, so knowing what to look for before it happens is of paramount importance. Lifeguard experience is preferred and first aid training is required. Getting yourself and a guest out of a life-threatening situation better be high on your list of priorities, because it will happen eventually.
Will Work For Surf
Cloudbreak from the lookout tower on Tavarua. Photo: Ken Lewis
So you want to work on one of the most beautiful islands in the world? Awesome. Just remember that this amazing job is one that doesn’t pay. In trade for three meals a day, a bed in the infamous “Bure 69” and getting the waves of your life, you will work for free. If you’re lucky you’ll get tips. There’s a reason you don’t see many boatmen over 35. Most of us get caught in the rat race and have bills, kids, and jobs that just become too hard to leave for long periods of time. The young crew has it dialed. They work jobs they can walk away from, save their money for a year and then come down to live the life we all covet. Buying plane tickets, ordering new boards, paying rent, and racking up a large bar tab while you’re in Fiji is a challenge for any boatman. But damn it all if it’s not worth it.
You Really Will Have To Work
Restaurants, one of the best waves on the planet. Photo: Ken Lewis
While surfing the best waves in the world is the high point of the job, be ready for the other side of the coin. Besides being a lifeguard and tour guide to the guests, you’ll unload boats packed full of luggage and board bags, help with repairs, and wake up in the middle of the night during a monsoon to paddle out into the dark and bail water out of boats, sometimes for hours. It gets hot, people can get eggy, and some days you’re just exhausted. Buck up, put on a smile, and get back to it. If you expect to just surf all day and not help your stay will be short and you won’t get an invite to return anytime soon.
It’s Not About Who You Know, It’s About Who Knows You
Tavarua boatmen 1995. Myself, Steve Baker, Terry Stewart and Jon Roseman. Photo: Ken Lewis
Being a regular paying guest is how many boatmen got their jobs. The management saw them surf, had great interactions with them and saw the personality traits that make a great addition to the rotation. Knowing the waves and the people who run the resort is really the only way to crack the code. If you send an email asking to be a boatman, don’t expect to get the job. The management likes to know the skill set of who they bring on. If you find yourself on the island and think you have the right stuff, talk to the guys in the office and lay it out there. If they see potential, you very well could get the call that will change your life.
