Is Colombia’s pacific coast the final frontier for surfing in the Latin Americas? Despite this secluded region of Colombia arguably housing some of the best waves in the region, it’s not exactly a hotspot for traveling surfers. This stretch of coast has long flown under the surfing radar, likely from a combination of isolation and the long shadow of a violent past. As recent as ten years ago this beautiful coastline of Colombia was a no-go zone infested with left-wing guerrilla groups, paramilitaries, and drug traffickers battling for control of the region. However, as the political situation begins to stabilize and word spreads of the amazing waves hidden here, will we see an increase in traveling surfers flocking to this region?
Years ago, the left-wing guerrilla groups of FARC and the ELN took advantage of the isolation to setup strategic strongholds well out of reach and interference of the powers that be. The violent conflicts were politically motivated, but over time their interests shifted toward the production and exporting of cocaine as a way to fund operations. The state of Choco was an area that most internationals and many Colombians feared to tread. If you were brave or perhaps more accurately stupid enough to visit this region for a time, you were figuratively rolling the dice, putting your life at risk while drug running, kidnapping, and murders were a frequent life hazard. Fast forward to the present day and this once highly dangerous situation has dramatically begun to shift, with FARC recently signing a peace treaty with the government and the ELN in negotiations for a hopefully similar outcome. Choco is slowly becoming one of the best tourist locations in the nation, overflowing with untouched natural beauty and an abundance of wildlife.
Personally, I’d kept my eye on this region while hearing whispers of world class waves hidden here. During my recent visit to the country, I was holed up in Medellin for three weeks keeping a close eye on the weather and surf charts for the Pacific Coast. It may have been the offseason for good surf, but I was clinging to some hope for swell in spite of a poor forecast. But finally, a north swell did register on the charts in week three as my trip was winding down. A range of sites were all showing different readings but I was desperate now and figured “what the hell, let’s do this.” To be completely honest, before flying into Choco I was somewhat nervous about the area’s violent history. However, within moments touching down and resting my feet upon the airline runway, my fears eroded. As I wandered the raw, rugged, dirty yet peaceful streets of Bahia Solano and El Valle I realized this wasn’t the high-risk area I’d imagined.
The small fishing village of El Valle has an island feel with a predominantly African Colombian population that barely tips the scales at 3,000 people. Life here is very, very slow paced with a relaxed charm to it. Everybody knows everybody here. No one is in a hurry and life is simple with very few distractions of the modern world. The majority of the isolated villages in this region are populated by direct descents of people who’d escaped slavery and settled here over 200 hundred years ago before slavery was officially abolished in the country in 1851. This area is so isolated that there are absolutely no roads connecting to the rest of Colombia and the only way to get here is via boat or by plane from Medellin. El Valle was definitely the chilled break that I needed and a refreshing change from the heavily tourist saturated Caribbean Colonial town of Cartagena. The Pacific Coast was a complete stark contrast and definitively more up my alley.
I scored really fun waves for my entire stay and I was lucky enough to score one epic session solo on a barreling bank in the chest to head high range. The local surfers here are few and far between, with most surfers being visitors to the area. I actually never witnessed more than five guys in the water at one time. Both towns, Nuqui and El Valle, have a number of fun beach breaks and a river-mouth break each within in walking distance, but the true top quality surf spots are very isolated and cut off by thick jungles and require boat access. There are a ton of barely surfed point breaks and reefs that are rumoured to be truly world class.
My visit to the Pacific Coast of Colombia was definitely one of the highlights of my three-month stay in this beautiful country. I took a punt on a dicey swell forecast and I was thoroughly rewarded with super fun to pumping waves, and getting to eat fresh whole snapper every day was just a bonus
