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The Inertia

Surf trips often follow the same routine. Depending on the length of the trip, the first few days are almost always spent surfing until you can’t surf anymore. Your shoulders are ruined, your skin is burned, your eyes are stinging, and there’s sand everywhere. It’s one of the best feelings in the world, isn’t it? But after a few days, your body needs a break. The waves might die down. You might want to do a bit of exploring, now that you’ve gotten at least a partial fill of waves. Which appears to be what Jamie O’Brien and the crew did in Mexico.

After a whole bunch of big days, they woke up a little later than normal. They headed down to the beach for a surf check, then moved along for another one. After an hour on the sand, Jamie made a decision: whomping in what he calls “Tina-sized barrels.” Then, since the day was still young, they headed off to yet another spot. The waves weren’t all-time, but the fun they had sure was.

 
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