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The Inertia

This past summer has been incredible. It’s funny — secretly, I usually avoid surfing in California because of the cold water and wetsuits. I came over in April, from Kauai, planning to stay for only a couple of weeks. But a couple of weeks turned into a couple of months, with insane waves and warm water. I soon realized that my boards from Hawaii didn’t work the same in California, so I went on a rampage of ordering a handful of unique colorful board shapes! This sparked a new love and excitement within my surfing — I came to love surfing and filming and exploring the California coast line, from lower Trestles to Malibu and even further north.

leila-body

 
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