Surfer/Writer/Researcher
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Everyone living in the moment, enjoying the beach, enjoying the surf.

You’re an aspiring surf and ocean writer. You feel drawn to the water and at peace when surrounded by it. So, here’s the dream: To be sitting on a spectacular beach, with soft, golden sand under foot and wearing nothing but a pair of swimming trunks and a pair of black shades. The sun is shining high in the sky, a light ocean breeze lingers in the air, and an open notebook and pen sit beside you. Then it’s just about absorbing and capturing the moment, letting nature enter your soul and take over your entire sense of being. It washes away the stress from your mind. It unwinds the muscles in your body, opening your eyes and ears to everything around you. Your thoughts run free.

Surfers in the ocean; waves rolling in one after the other. Barrels, hang fives, hang tens. Floaters, top turns and aerials. Everyone living in the moment, enjoying the beach, enjoying the surf.

There’s a small scattering of others on the beach. Girls in bikinis are lying on their bellies, cradling their heads in their hands, looking out on the surf. Couples lay next to each other hand in hand, eyes closed, facing the sky and soaking up the sun. Dudes stand with their boards looking back out over the ocean. A girl sits alone on a beach mat enthralled by a novel, looking up only between chapters. “Aloha”s, “Oi”s, and “What’sup’s” bounce between passers-by. You feel the sense of peace and glory of life being shared among people from all walks of life. Fresh coconuts are drank, bananas, mangoes and papayas are eaten. Smiles and skin exude good health from living the good life.

The beach is surrounded by luscious green hills with tropical plants rising proudly from the soil and rolling down to the ocean’s edge. Cool, yellowy-green palm trees spread their long leaves and over the trails. The air is fresh and clean and not a single cloud mars the gloriously clear blue sky.

Your veins flow with the overwhelming positivity of life. The sun releases the Seratonin in your brain and you smile at the deliciousness of feeling truly alive. You become aware of what living really is. Not just existing but what life really feels like and how it feels so much better outdoors, feeling the glow of positivity and joy from others sharing such natural delights.

Watching the surfers do their thing and being hypnotised by the ocean takes you to a higher plane where everything becomes clear. Your body and mind are lighter, your love for life is fueled. You could be suspended in that moment forever and be thoroughly content, aware of everything, feeling nirvana and being part of the sublime.

Perhaps it seems this dream is to sit on a beach and do nothing, but really it is everything: Simply to enjoy living and writing about your surroundings. You are most alive when feeling such joy and elation. In the surroundings of nature you understand our place in the world and your duty to it. The essence of living well, of living as one with nature. Harness its’ beauty, positivity and feel the natural drug of life warm the body.

The beach is your office, the mind your computer, the notepad and pen your tools. You are plugged in to nature, and life is your high speed connection to the real world. Your dream is becoming a reality.

Live well and hang loose my friends.

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