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The Inertia

Do you know what’s a rare thing for the average surfer? Getting barrelled. That, perhaps, is why it’s the end-all-be-all of the surfing experience; why getting shacked is the peak of surfing. But for CT-caliber surfers, getting barrelled is a pretty normal thing. They surf often in waves that offer up barrels, and they surf well enough to actually be in the position to get as deep as humanly possible. But do you know what’s a rare thing for even the best surfers on earth? Three barrels on one wave. Young Griffin Colapinto, though, knows what that’s like because it happened to him at Kirra during the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast in 2018. The wave earned him a perfect 10, as you probably remember.

In the World Surf League’s The Lineup, Griffin breaks down what was going through his head. “When I took off on the wave,” he said, “I only really thought it was going to be that little barrel. Then that thing came out of nowhere. Then the next thing came out of nowhere. The whole wave was just so mind-boggling. I had no idea what I was paddling into.”

See more from the World Surf League here.

 
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