Samoa’s not usually the first place one thinks of when they’re planning a surf trip. Here’s a secret, though: it should be. It’s Hawaii and Indonesia rolled up into one perfect package of powerful waves and postcard scenery.
Made up of four main islands (and nearly countless smaller ones and atolls), the Samoan archipelago is reminiscent of Hawaii before it became the mecca for all things surf. Just like any group of islands sitting in the middle of the Pacific, Samoa’s ripe for waves all year around. The south shores work constantly, while the northern sides directly face the long interval lines that march through the Pacific in the winter months.
In a time where surf travel is clogging up nearly every lineup on the planet, Samoa remains a bastion for the dream: an absolute glut of waves of all kinds, without the shoulder-to-shoulder desperation of the crowds. Of the four main islands, two really stand out. Upolu and Savaii offer up sucking barrels and fast long walls for intermediate to advanced surfers. And of course, water so clear you might forget it’s there.
The same winter swells that turn Hawaii’s seven-mile miracle into a glittering pile up of broken boards and perfect barrels bang into Samoa, reeling unchecked over countless reefs, folding over themselves in a display of raw ocean power that, for the most part, goes unseen. Although north swells are the biggest and most consistent during those winter months, because Samoa is so far south, it’s perfectly positioned to catch south swells from Antarctica and those tropical lows that move across the Pacific.
Like most tropical island chains, the Samoan archipelago has a dry season and a wet season. The dry season is from April through October, and matches up perfectly with the south swells that roll through. The wet season, from November through March, takes the full brunt of southwest cyclone swells. Tradewinds can blow from the north, turning the south and southeast-facing sides into an offshore wonderland. And one of the greatest things about a small island is that it’s easy to go from one side to the other, depending on the swell direction. So here it is in a nutshell: you want big waves? June through August is when you should go. You want clean, and perfect, with a little less size? December through February. And of course, the rest of the year also bodes well. Basically, you can’t go wrong. You just need to think about what kind of waves you want to surf.
One of the interesting things about a surf trip is that it’s not always the waves that make or break it. The down time plays a huge role, too. At some point during most trips, you might need a break. The waves might go flat. And unlike some places you could go, you won’t be stuck playing solitaire for hours in Samoa. The vast array of sea life that calls the islands home makes it a paradise for snorkeling and diving. Waterfalls tumble down cliffs into perfect, clear pools, and there’s an incredible, friendly culture that most surfers have yet to experience.
There are a few options for places to stay. If you’re on Upolu, a good bet is the Salani Surf Resort, a quiet little place perfect for surfers and couples. They’ve got three open-bow skiffs and a host of vehicles to get you to where you need to go. Salani has surf guides who know the area like the back of their hand. The resort encourages surfers to bring their significant other along, because there is so much more to Samoa than the surfing. The resort sits at the mouth of the Mulvai Fagatoloa River, right beside a lagoon and close to the traditional village of Salani. They’ve got more types of food than you could ever eat, from American and Mexican, to Indian and European. And once a week, they host a Samoan Fia Fia night, with traditional food and singing and dancing.
Another option is the Aganoa Lodge, located on Savaii. The lodge employs a few genius weather system trackers who are able to read the complicated charts. Because of its location, Savaii is a little more open to swells from all directions, and some local knowledge will put you into the best waves to be found on the island. The lodge sits in the shade of the rainforest, looking out over the sand and some of the most spectacular sunsets you’ve ever seen.
All in all, the Samoan archipelago is ripe for the picking right now. Between empty, perfect waves and traditional culture, there aren’t too many places left on earth that hit all the marks of a perfect surf trip. Samoa does – and adds a few marks of its own.
Want to #GoThere? Book a trip to Salani Surf Resort here or Aganoa Lodge here.
