First things first. Acquire a surf mat. George Greenough says it here –”There’s a feeling you get. You’re down very close to the water…” and “it’s a very neat surfing vehicle.” But this video is less about the mat and more about the feeling. George is famous for having developed unique surf craft designs, including improving on the traditional surf mat, which he explains in this video, and the spoon kneeboard. If you’re not familiar with George, do yourself a favor and check out The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun. Then, proceed with step one and acquire a surf mat. Because in the lineup these days, there are too many guys obsessed with critical maneuvers and performance. George gets it, riding waves is supposed to be fun. Don’t let crowded lineups and small waves get you down. Grab a surf mat, go bodysurfing, do something to reclaim fun. If you’re not having fun, you’re blowing it.
