From Surgery to Shooting: Surf Photography Saved My Life

Robb Wilson

Co-Editor/Photographer, Aladdin Surf Mag

Community

$My Buddy Martin Cabada, just making sure. Yup, they\'re all over. Photo: Robb Wilson$

My Buddy Martin Cabada, just making sure. Yup, they're all over. Photo: Robb Wilson

Empty death nugget. Photo: Robb Wilson

$One of Santa Cruz\'s newest dads and finest shredders. Buddy Freitas. Photo: Robb Wilson$

One of Santa Cruz's newest dads and finest shredders. Buddy Freitas. Photo: Robb Wilson

Somehow. Photo: Robb Wilson

Griffin Colapinto, slicing and dicing the crowds at Rincon, Ca. Photo: Robb Wilson

Matti Passaquindici. Rail game and crowd control all in one. Photo: Robb Wilson

$It\'s the simple things in life. Photo: Robb Wilson$

It's the simple things in life. Photo: Robb Wilson

One of the best sixteen year olds in the world, Kanoa Igarashi. Photo: Robb Wilson

$Timmy Reyes isn\'t around home much, but when he is, he\'s always amazing to watch. Here he is, jet lagged, injured and charging shore pound bowls. Photo: Robb Wilson$

Timmy Reyes isn't around home much, but when he is, he's always amazing to watch. Here he is, jet lagged, injured and charging shore pound bowls. Photo: Robb Wilson

$Ventura\'s Matt McCabe sending it BIG at one of his many home arenas. Photo: Robb Wilson$

Ventura's Matt McCabe sending it BIG at one of his many home arenas. Photo: Robb Wilson

Eveline VanBrand. As graceful as they come. Photo: Robb Wilson

Nat Young rips at home too! Photo: Robb Wilson

This day was off the hook. One of the best days of the year for sure. Newport Beach, Ca. Photo: Robb Wilson

One of many many tubes for Jarred Mell on this fine offshore day in Southern California. Photo: Robb Wilson

This day worked out kind of cool. East Coaster Vince Boulanger and I, despite the lack of swell had a hunch that a little sand bar might be happening. When we got there, It was really small, but it was uncrowded and there was some little wedges coming in. We went out, had some fun and nailed this cool little nugget. Photo: Robb Wilson

$Ladies and Gentleman, Santa Cruz\'s Noah Wegrich taking it to the lips of Lowers on a visit to Southern California. Photo: Robb Wilson$

Ladies and Gentleman, Santa Cruz's Noah Wegrich taking it to the lips of Lowers on a visit to Southern California. Photo: Robb Wilson

$I\'m pretty sure this body boarder is having a rad day. Photo: Robb Wilson$

I'm pretty sure this body boarder is having a rad day. Photo: Robb Wilson

$This is my 15 year old friend Sean\"Woodzy\" Woods. He\'s from North Los Angeles County, Ca and he surfs better than you. Photo: Robb Wilson$

This is my 15 year old friend Sean"Woodzy" Woods. He's from North Los Angeles County, Ca and he surfs better than you. Photo: Robb Wilson

$Noah \"Waggy\" Wegrich teaching the youth some backhand assault tactics in Hawaii. Photo: Robb Wilson$

Noah "Waggy" Wegrich teaching the youth some backhand assault tactics in Hawaii. Photo: Robb Wilson

12-year-old Sage Burke from Newport Beach is good at getting barreled. Photo: Robb Wilson

I was born in the Philippines and moved to Long Beach, California, when I was around four years old. Long Beach is a very diverse city with a lot to offer. I’ve been surfing my whole life, but I’ve also been plagued with back problems. I’ve had eight back surgeries and three hip surgeries – all surfing and snowboarding related. This ultimately led to me discovering a new passion: photography. It started off as just a way to stay connected to the ocean as well as my friends and family that surf. In fact, I started shooting photos from the water before I ever took photos on land. This might sound cliché and might also be hard for some people to understand, but photography basically saved my life.

See more of Robb’s work on Instagram: @robbwilson_familyguy

Contribute

Join our community of contributors.

Apply

From Surgery to Shooting: Surf Photography Saved My Life

Newsletter

Contribute