Being goofy-footed, I'm always looking to go frontside. At Maverick's it's no different for me. The only difference is that pointing your board that direction puts you in the belly of the Maverick's beast. On some of the smaller days (15- to 18-foot ) the left can be the biggest, most round tube imaginable. And that's what most big-wave surfers look for: barrels you can drive a bus through. Photo: Brian Overfelt
This beach break will humble the best of 'em. On a big day, you might squeak out a rip in five minutes, or take a beating for a half an hour before you make it past the impact zone. On this particular day, it was the latter so it made this wave that much sweeter after about an hour of non-stop paddling. Photo: Ryan Chachi Craig
I always love getting out of town and driving up the coast where all you see is green hills on one side and the big blue Pacific Ocean on the other. There are a lot of nooks and crannies. And if you do a little searching you can most likely find a ridable wave without a human in site. Photo: Kenan Chan
I'm truly blessed living a short jog to a handful of super fun waves. Most evenings after work I won't even look at it, I'll just suit up and make the jog to the water. Sometimes it's horrible, but other times you get surprised by 4- to 6-foot green walls and offshore winds. Photo: Ryan Chachi