I was following this swell for several days. There was a certain hype to it, considering it was the first real south swell of the year. I knew every photographer around was headed to Lowers, but the crossed up swell and deep morning high tide compelled me to search elsewhere. And thank God I did.
I arrived at a true Southern California gem around 6:30 a.m. Surprisingly, there wasn’t another photographer in sight. In fact, there weren’t a lot of surfers out either. Perhaps it was the fog. You couldn’t really tell it was good until you got down to the beach. It was nearly a foot overhead, big square barrels, and the sandbars looked insane. Here is the magic that transpired.
See more of Eric’s photography on his Instagram.
