A big swell rolled into San Diego last winter, causing a few nightmare situations for surfers. I decided to cut the video footage up from that particular day and give you a feeling of what surfers go through when they get caught inside when there’s giant swell in the ocean.
Big days mean big, rogue sets come through that can wipeout the entire lineup. That creates so much chaos. You have guys taking off, you have surfers making the occasional turn when a section presents itself, or you have surfers trying to get barreled and of course getting clipped. Then you have a whole other group trying to paddle out to get out past the break.
I try to show you more than a couple of surfers that are dealing with these sometimes-nightmare scenarios. Some surfers stay calm, cool and collected, others seem like they’re hitting the panic button. But it’s hard to tell when there’s so much going on in the lineup.
As you may know, surfing is a game of inches, especially when things get big. A matter of feet can separate one surfer from getting over a wave, or getting dragged over the falls; getting barreled, or getting closed out on. Take a look at this footage and you’ll see what I mean. Enjoy.
Find more from Brad Jacobson on his YouTube channel.
