John, the guy who took me under his wings in surfing, a surf coach in Oceanside today and member of the Save the Waves Film Festival’s selection committee. Photo: Russell Spencer
As a kid growing up on the East Coast, I would get super excited whenever my cousins from California visited. They were always a few steps ahead of what was cool and happening in the worlds of surfing and skating. I remember one particular visit vividly. My cousin John was showing the family some footage from a big swell from La Jolla Cove. I was mesmerized watching my younger cousin ride massive 15 foot+ wave faces on a 5’6” Uncle Mike X-Fish. I felt like I was wasting my life on the meager shores of the Atlantic. That video, as much as anything else, sparked my eventual move to the West Coast.
When I finally made the move out west a few years later my cousin John was grinding his way along the WQS tour. Meanwhile I was eagerly trying to make the awkward transition from a bodyboard to a surfboard without looking like too much of a kook. John had a full window display ad of him boosting a huge air in the surf shop where I took a job folding t-shirts – needless to say, I felt genetic expectations weighing heavy on my shoulders. But whenever I would get frustrated and down on my slow rate of progress, even when I came close to quitting altogether, John was always there to give me a much needed motivational kick in the rear. Instead of shying away from his kooky cousin, he happily dragged me along with him. He heckled me in the water, made sure I got waves, got to know all the locals and always gave me encouragement.
So it’s no surprise to see how John’s innate abilities as a great surfer and coach has turned in to a career as the owner and operator of Oceanside’s Learn To Rip Surf Lessons. Most recently, John joined me on the selection committee for the Save The Waves Film Festival and lent his expertise to help craft this year’s film program from a wide range of international submissions. On the verge of becoming a father, I sat down with John to discuss his relationship with the ocean and how having a kid on the way has changed his outlook on life and the environment.
Briefly describe your relationship with the beaches of Oceanside.
I’ve been enjoying the beaches of Oceanside my entire life and started surfing them around ten years old. I learned how to surf at Oceanside Surf Camp on the north side of the pier. “Northside” is my favorite summer spot. During the winter you can catch me hanging at South Jetty, grabbing a few right-handers. I’m currently visiting the beaches of Oceanside daily for private surf lessons, coaching and judging surf competitions.
What’s your most memorable surf session or trip?
I don’t know if I can just choose one. I’ve had a great time competing and traveling the globe. I’d have to say I’ve been the most barreled at empty lineups in Jersey and the Outer banks. I’ll never forget my first winter on the North Shore at the Quiksilver house. My most recent trip was to Bali with my wife and friends. This trip was super fun and I got some of the longest barrels of my life.
What’s your favorite part of coaching and running a surf camp?
I don’t know if there is anything more rewarding than teaching someone to surf. I really enjoy giving back to the kids and watching them improve. I don’t only enjoy teaching them about surfing, but also teaching them life lessons like how to be kind and help each other, how to best represent and communicate with sponsors. I really enjoy helping them face their fears and how to dig deep and find hidden strengths needed to succeed. Some of the children I work with come from a broken home. When a child hits the water, all he or she is thinking about is the ocean. Every current hardship or problem they are going through in life is washed away.
What’s a golden piece of advice you’d give to someone just learning how to surf or wanting to learn?
If you are trying to learn how to surf or improve your skills, never give up. Surfing takes muscle memory and repetition. The more consistent you are, the more successful you will be.
How did you discover your passion for climbing? How is it related (and how is it different) from your first passion of surfing? What keeps you coming back?
I climbed as a kid a few times with a neighbor and was hooked. My neighbor moved away and I took a break from climbing for several years. My wife and I asked for climbing harnesses on our wedding registry. Once we got them, we went out a few times and were back at it. Climbing and surfing use similar muscles. If you are a strong paddler, have some core strength and good balance, you will be a decent rock climber. In climbing, as in surfing, you need a good head in dangerous situations. I love traveling in search of new climbs on uncrowded rocks just as I enjoy searching for great waves with light crowds. The constant adventure of discovery keeps me going time and time again. I love going out and searching for un-climbed boulders. The exciting challenge I consistently face when finding new rocks is do I have the strength and courage to get myself up them?
What was your experience like being on the selection committee for the STW Film Fest? Do you have any favorites you’re looking forward to seeing on the big screen?
I really enjoyed being part of the Save the Waves selection committee. I enjoyed seeing everyone’s different perspectives on how they can tell a story of preserving the ocean environment. I am excited to see the Gerry Lopez film “The More Things Change” again. It’s awesome to see what they are doing in Bali. Watching these films motivates me to do more beach cleanups and so on with the kids I work with.
You’re about to become a father for the first time… has this changed your relationship to nature, in regards to the world you want to leave behind?
I am a big naturalist. I feel so blessed to live where I do. I can be deep in the Sierra Nevada Mountains in a few hours. I’m about 20 minutes from one of the most consistent surf breaks in California. I can ride knee-high+ waves maybe 320 days out of the year. I know how vulnerable these natural resources are and how important it is to preserve them. Forest fires, bark beetles and other natural and even manmade causes are destroying thousands of trees and some animal species daily. Our oceans and beaches are more polluted as well. My wife will be giving birth to our first baby in a few months and I hope he or she has the same opportunities we have. Our coastlines and waterways are a precious places and I hope others will join myself and Save The Waves to preserve these beautiful places we live and play in for generations to come.
Editor’s Note: Learn more about Save the Waves here and find out if STW is coming to your town by checking out their festival schedule here.
