If you are willing to put in the effort and time, Simeulue can offer a unique way to disconnect with the weathered grind of established surf destinations that litter the archipelago. Photo: Cleland
As I write, I’m watching Sinabang harbor spin as the boat I am living on aligns with the shifting wind. It is one of many brief, but dramatic, equatorial squalls. These are usually accompanied by torrential downpours.
In terms of geographic stardom, Simeulue has no peer. Four huge earthquakes have rocked this island in the last eight years, each with varying degrees of devastation. However, situated 120 km from the West Coast of Sumatra, Simeulue could be considered the last of the main islands in the archipelago to gain attention in the surfing world. Virgin and uncrowded, it has a number of good reef and beach breaks, and is open to consistent swell from the Indian Ocean. The door of discovery is still wide open for those with time and the intent. If the numerous teams of visiting pros and photographers are anything to measure by, it seems Simeulue is no longer just a gateway to the Banyak and Hinako Islands.
There are over 80,000 inhabitants on Simeulue, the majority of whom practice Islam. Barely a word of English is spoken and very little Western culture permeates this regency of Aceh. I have been careful to show respect and always wear tees, and not disrupt any of the periods throughout the day reserved for prayer.
The harbor we have anchored at acts as an amphitheater of sound before sunrise every morning. The Muslim practice of chanting in the mosques begins each day, at precisely 5 AM, amplified by walls of giant speakers, and this continues for close to an hour. I don’t know how many mosques there are in Simeulue, but the sound is staggering. Anyone that has woken up early in Padang after a stint in the Mentawai Islands would have experienced this. The chanting repeats again at midday, sometimes at 3 PM and again at around 6 PM. Also, at these times all business ceases for the hour-long prayer. Islam is incredibly ingrained with everyday life here.
There is no alcohol available on the island. A few years ago, an Indonesian friend of mine did nine months of hard jail time for supplying one carton of beer to the Red Cross. There are shelves upon shelves full of “skin whitening” creams in the Indomarket. It seems white people want to be dark and dark people want to be white. Obsessed with football, everyone has their own favorite Premiere League team, and there are numerous soccer fields nestled amongst the lush rainforest. The food is typically sickly sweet, but I have been successfully running the gauntlet with the plentiful street vendors, with tasty traditional cuisine always available. While the weather has been amazing, I’ve learned that access to fresh water is sometimes a problem with reports that wells have been drying up. Whilst traveling on my motorbike, I’ve seen water buffalo, giant monitor lizards, eagles, snakes and domesticated goats, roosters, chickens, geese, cats and dogs.
As I have been looking for surf, I have been stunned by the impact of the 8.7 magnitude earthquake that hit Simeulue in March, 2005. On some parts of the coastline you can see sharp dead reef that has been lifted as much as six feet, and suspended palms that are clinging to life as their exposed root systems dangle from their raised podiums. Primary life has returned to this bleached landscape, yet I remain in awe of the power the Earth. Visible and distinct fractures in some buildings leave me feeling preoccupied with the notorious “ring of fire” when I am inside them too long.
The waves are really fun. I’ve have been surfing this left and right peak near the most popular surf camp. A new wave after the quake, it seems very consistent, breaking through both tides and usually over head high. My favorite wave is a fun right hander near the airport, short but hollow with an awesome shape. I have heard of good, but fickle, hollow lefts and rights on the offshore island of Palau Tapah. Also, there are many punchy, hollow beach breaks that scatter the coast when the swell drops. There is just the one road that extends the length of the island; so working out where the waves are isn’t difficult. During the normal peak swell period for Indonesia, I am certain you can consistently score uncrowded waves. Simeulue doesn’t have the A-list celebrity wave, but I believe this perhaps works in favor of the traveling surfer who doesn’t want to deal with the trials associated with popular waves. Accommodation varies from basic huts to dedicated surf camps (with beer), but expect more options in the coming years. Also, fishing boats are available to take you around to the various breaks. Locals don’t surf, malaria is not an issue, and the neighboring island of Nias is only a ferry ride away for the tube starved.
If you are willing to put in the effort and time, Simeulue can offer a unique way to disconnect with the weathered grind of established surf destinations that litter the archipelago. If you want to tick off world-class waves, or intend on feeding an insatiable barrel appetite, Simeulue will no doubt disappoint. However, if your Indonesian pilgrimage is enriched with culture, stunning landscape, lots of uncrowded, consistent, quality waves and the potential for further discovery, then this seldom-mentioned gem deserves closer consideration.
