Derrick Disney understands surfboards. He knows the ins and outs, the little changes to make big differences. He knows the rails, the rocker, the concave; knows the fins, the rake, and the camber. That’s because he generally rides surfboards he’s made himself. From start to finish. From block of foam to work of art.
“Being able to have your hands on it the whole way through,” he said, “I think that really helps with learning what you’re doing. Every step and how it affects the end result. It’s kind of therapeutic, I guess.”
And whatever he’s doing, it’s clear that it’s working. Disney’s surfing isn’t the kind you see in a CT event. It’s not planned or trained for. It’s simply surfing by the seat of his pants, letting the wave dictate the next maneuver, and letting the boards he creates be the vessel for whatever he wants to do. Jack Coleman put together the edit you see above, and it’s full of simple, stylish surfing that gets the job done and is pleasing to the eye.
