Derrick Disney on his self-shaped twinzer is a look at really, really good surfing. Photo: YouTube//Screenshot
It’s not often one comes across a surfer quite like Derrick Disney. He’s not a contest guy. He’s not a guy covered in logos. He is, though, a surfer’s surfer. His style is uniquely his own, and that’s partially because he knows exactly how he wants to surf and has the ability to make surfboards that cater to that style.
He truly understands surfboards — the little adjustments that make those big differences, the slight tweaks that do different things to different styles of surfing. Disney makes his own surfboards from start to finish – from a block of foam to a work of art.
“Being able to have your hands on it the whole way through,” he said, “I think that really helps with learning what you’re doing. Every step and how it affects the end result. It’s kind of therapeutic, I guess.”
Disney is a twin-fin guy – someone who surfs with the wave instead of on it. No wasted movements, no feeling of attack. Just fluid and powerful surfing that feels at times as though he’s barely hanging on. He takes what the waves give him and adds to it. He’s along for the ride, and the steering wheel is loose.
In the video above, courtesy of Nobody Surf, Disney takes his self-shaped twinzer fish through its paces at Barra De La Cruz. And those paces look great.
