The ideal situation. Photo: Kevin Roche
It may not be election season, but as surfers, it is always surf season somewhere. On any given day, there is someone, or many-a-someones, craving a wave. During hurricane warnings, national warfare, domestic disputes, terrorist attacks and snow days, it can be legitimately proven that in some ocean, river or lake someone is paddling (or towing) into a wave. As surfers, the hunt never ends. The prize is never won because we believe there is always another to be had: a ride that feels better than the last.
As a product of surf culture, news and even gossip I read my fair share of opinionated articles. Many about the dream of joining the reawakened vagabond generation. Stories that inspire and feed the dreams of many who sit behind desks and burn the midday oil in fluorescent lighting. Another recent topic has been centered around the sexual connotations of women surfing–supporting hoots, debating, protesting hollers. All of it being fueled by none other than the open forum of the internet. People yelling at one another through capitalization and loud punctuation marks. RIDICULOUS, I SAY!!!!
But as the majority of us sit around coffee tables, drinking IPAs while discussing the humor it provides, the conversation will always revert to one final question before the six-pack is empty: “Where are we surfing tomorrow?” The answer is never a simple, “Same spot as today,” because surfers are notorious for over-thinking, over-analyzing and questioning every decision. Many of us refuse to commit until the actual spot check in the early morning hours. No wonder most of us are single. As surfers, we are encouraged to speculate, texting one another when the sun rises or the time clock chimes 5pm to ensure the best outcome of our session. Sessions that haven’t even begun yet. But who can blame us? At least we don’t settle for mediocre, or do we?
The second best question surfers debate over is: “Would you rather surf good to epic conditions with a crowd, or fair to good conditions with only a few people out?” Insert the inaugural debate here.
With less than a decade of surfing experience, I’ll consider myself a newcomer. Most days, I waver when answering that question. The optimist in me says good to epic. It only takes one wave to get the incredible rush that can keep you on a high for hours. Surfing perfect conditions can improve your abilities and, more importantly, it can showcase them. If you know what you’re doing, if you are progressing in your surfing, a good to epic day will help prove that. Prove it, one: to everyone in the line up and two: to yourself. Because if you can’t do your best on a good to epic day, when can you?
However, the persistent learner in me has to give it up to fair to good. I stand firm behind one belief about my surfing–that I am nowhere near good enough to be picky. Hell, I give poor to fair more of a look than most people. Example: If the North Shore is showcasing a 3-4 foot north swell coming in at 15-17 seconds, I know, without a doubt, that Lani’s is the spot to be. I also know that a perfect north swell ensures the water will be chock full of people. When Lani’s breaks consistently, it’s hard to consider anywhere else. For me, that is when I actively choose elsewhere. Why? For the simple fact that I am likely to catch more waves at a mediocre spot without having to battle anyone. And more waves at a lesser value is worth its weight in practice. The more practice, the more chance for perfection on a day I do choose good to epic.
Surfing is a sport that needs a constant effort. Perfection doesn’t exist in surfing. The closest we have are Kelly, Joel and Mick, but even they don’t stick every wave, every time. It seems practice doesn’t make perfect in our sport, it only makes better practice. But I leave the debate up to the rest of the surfing world: Would you choose a crowded good to epic day for that one wave, or fair to good for more than your share of chances? And more importantly, why?
