It’s not all that often that we get to see Clay Marzo surf. It’s a shame, too, because Clay Marzo’s surfing is some of the most incredible surfing on the planet. But Marzo doesn’t surf so anyone can watch him surf… he just surfs because he loves surfing.
Marzo, as you likely know, has Asperger’s syndrome. It’s a high-functioning form of autism that can make so-called “normal” functions difficult. Functions like reading facial expressions, social cues, and socializing in larger groups. Interviews in particular are hard for him, and competition wasn’t something he ever loved. When he’s anxious or exited, he’ll wave his arms or rub his hands together, a practice autism specialists call “stimming.”
Surfing, though? Surfing is what he loves. There’s a flip side to the challenges of Asperger’s though, and it could be seen as a benefit. Many people with it can develop a singular, laser-focus on one activity. As a result, they can get extraordinarily good at it — and that’s certainly the case with Marzo. He routinely does things on a surfboard that are seemingly impossible. Eight hour sessions without a break aren’t uncommon. Marzo, perhaps, loves surfing more than anyone else. But, as we said, we don’t get to see enough of his surfing… which is what makes it so special when we do.
So here’s a quick glimpse of Clay Marzo, surfing a Catch Surf 54 Special in Maui. And although his board choice is a little different than usual, his talent remains the same.
