Growing up in Jamaica, surfing perfect a-frames, and never having to worry about the stress and restrictions of the wider surf population has inspired a rich history of local heroes within our surf culture. I can remember watching my dad and a handful of “Mampy Chasers” charging the giant seas during hurricanes, the cool and unique style of Killer Miller’s layback barrels, Pierre’s numerous backdoor entries through the pit at the zoo, and millions of epic gaping barrels that my dad, Billy, gets lost in and somehow manages to escape unscathed. These memories have helped to build a rich, family-like surf culture, where all surfers on the island know each other by name, where the groms are the elders’ apprentices, and where post-session activities entail a small barbeque on the sand, followed by a trip back to the surf camp to watch footage from a handheld camcorder around a cooler of cold Red Stripe, Guinness, and Ting.
Nothing is ever really appreciated until it’s lost or, in this case, you get exposed to the contrary…especially through experiences in the wider world: all the hassling and jockeying for waves and the right of way on the peak in a crowded line up, and not knowing anyone in the water. The absence of generosity between surfers in the more prominent surfing countries has jaded my thoughts of Jamaica’s future in the global surf industry.
On the other hand, the “commercialization” of Jamaican surfing has seen many benefits to our nation. The modernization of the sport has given many children a shot at a career, and has inspired innovation among our top surfers. As Jamaican groms’ style and abilities approach the levels of some of the top surfers in the more prominent surf destinations (and, in some cases, even to the level of some of the icons), the battle we now face is a means of pushing these great talents to their full potential. With the surf brands of Australia, the United States, Brazil, France, Spain and South Africa being the centers of the surf industry’s attention, the great talents of smaller surf destinations have an uphill battle to try and break through the surface.
While a surfer’s success should depend on talent, effort and commitment, it seems that nationality, race, and social background actually play an undue influence in sculpting today’s modern surf icons. Countries with years of rich surf history create a competitive environment from the beginning, while the relaxed island vibe is still really strong among the surf population in new-generation surf countries like Jamaica. These contrasting environments characterize the personalities of their surfers, and in the case of the newer surf cultures it dampens the drive needed to excel in the wider arena.
In developing surf nations there are no major contests, surf magazines, or videos, and the drive to be the best is basically just for bragging rights. There is no medium available to get the level of exposure or experience as an aspiring professional surfer in the US or Australia. Our largest events in aren’t even half as big as their amateur events. Living in a country where the surf population is still seen as an underground movement, we’re still behind the global charge and despite efforts of the Surfing Association, development is reduced to a crawling pace.
When we travel to the ISA World Championships each year and get exposed to the hustle and bustle of the rest of the world, we try to fit into the pack, but the crowded line ups, the horrible beach breaks, the unfamiliar competitiveness at the peaks, the eyes on the beach, and the pressure to perform your best when it’s convenient to the photographers and the big men in the business detracts from the joy, freedom, and solitude in surfing – the feelings that make us fall in love with it in the first place.
Even after returning home, motivated to evolve, it’s difficult to do so. The lack of push and talent in the rest of the population seems to drown out the competitive spirit. Next year, it’s the same experience, because the world keeps evolving. They have hundreds of kids striving to make the team for a chance to go represent their country. Here, ten kids try; the top four make the team. It’s a lot easier, which makes the competitive drive a lot less intense. Furthermore, those ten kids are all best friends, and even during contests we share waves and cheer each other on. So the surfing takes on a more family-like vibe, where each surfer pushes the group, and in turn, draws his motivation from the rest of the clan. Here, smiles and stoke drive surfing’s innovation, not pressure and competitiveness as in the rest of the world.
With this in mind, it is quite clear we need a new generation to break through into the surf industry. By taking a different approach to professional surfing, where the love and family vibe we share in our line ups takes precedence and influences the wider world. Presenting a fresh outlook on surfing by bringing back the fun and stoke among the world’s surfers could do some good. This will help pave the way for future talents and help to widen the scope of the international surf media and industry. The icons have had a stranglehold on the surf industry for long enough, and now it’s time for some fresh blood to stir things up.