“We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop.” –Mother Teresa
During one of the worst wipeouts of my life, I was held under for three waves, pinned to the rock ledge at a remote reef. The south coast waves appear quickly on the horizon and detonate with merciless ferocity on the numerous reefs and rock ledges. Caught inside and pinned to the bottom, I was truly at the mercy of the unyielding ocean as it pressed its weight upon me. I knew that if I relaxed and didn’t panic, I would have enough air, but my body and lungs were screaming, “get me out of here!” I tried to stay calm as I convinced my mind of rational solutions. After the second wave passed over me, exerting its grip upon my situation, I found my leg rope. I knew my board lay somewhere above. I tried to follow this lifeline upwards, only to be hit by wave number three.
The circumstances that surrounded me were beyond my control. I had to ride it out and be prepared for the opportunity of breath when the ocean released me. Eventually, I found the surface and gasped through foam and froth for the air my lungs craved. I arrived on the beach depleted of strength, red faced, exhausted and bashed around, but alive. This was by no means a huge Hawaiian hold down or a close call with death in mountainous seas – but it was a reminder of the fragility of life. I was awakened again to how without a moment’s warning the ocean can change and a situation of control can become beyond our control.
I had been surfing this reef frequently and the swell was dropping. The day before the incident occurred, the waves had been large and held real consequences. I had surfed them well, in my mind at least, and survived. The next day, the waves were a more playful size–still full of overhead barrels, but not caverns where consequences were dire. I was cocky, complacent and casual with the ocean. I took off too deep at times, hoping to thread the eye of the needle. I paddled for a deeper, bigger one and pulled back too late and got sucked over the falls. It was this decision that led me into the hold down situation.
Just like the ocean’s fury, the circumstances of life can quickly overtake us. Lost jobs or failing health, the rising cost of living and shrinking incomes so many face–it all seems to crush us. Will we get breathing space? Can we find our way to the surface again or will we slip below the waterline? Sure, there were decisions on my part that contributed to the place I ended up in that day.
When I found my leg rope, I knew it led upwards to air and life. Hope returned, and I knew there was something above that could lead me out through the turbulence. We find hope in something higher at times, when we are pushed down and circumstances are out of our control. We all need hope and a leg rope to climb. There is nothing as useful as a helping hand in times of need.
However, there are surfers and beach communities that are doing it everywhere in every lineup.
Imagine what our surfing tribe would be like if we offered a leg rope to climb to those who are caught in circumstances beyond their control?
