Surf Department Director, Surfing the Nations
Community

The Inertia

I woke up to the sound of someone pounding against the door. “Do you see this? Julie, are you seeing this!?!”

One of my teammates, Stefan, stood there already suited up in the hallway amping. And then I, too, listened as the ocean sang the song all surfers love to hear — waves!

Soon the beach began to line with sleepy eyed curiosity of our participants. Head-high beachbreak barrels: it was time for us to get them on some real waves. The typhoon gave our team a solid session, and as the hours passed, the size dropped to a manageable level for the rest of the surf camp.

We finally got to show them how majestic the power of the ocean can be when harnessed with respect and passion.

“I tapped quickly on her left shoulder and dodged to the right. A juvenile joke but one that seemed to bring her so much laughter and for that quick moment I could see in her eyes a freedom only a child could understand. It was the same look she gave me when she rode her first wave. It was as if the politics of our countries and the differences in our realities dissipated. For that moment we were simply, friends.”

The days came and went so quickly but our friendships seemed as if the roots began years ago. Maybe it was the surf, the sun, the fun or maybe it was the trust they put in our hands to keep them safe and to share with them one of the best sports they had no idea they had been missing.

We wrapped up our surf camp experience with a few hours of free surf, loads of photos and many goodbyes. And then we got ready for that last night of Korean BBQ party. The blankets were laid out across the dirt floor, plates set as if we were fine dining in a restaurant, and we sat shoulder to shoulder with our students. We all shared a great meal, stories from the week; laughter that came rolling deep from our bellies.

The night was coming to an end. But before we could leave Pioneers, we had a few things to give them. We presented the KITC (Korea International Tour Company) group 13 surfboards, over a dozen wetsuits, bags of wax, bodyboards, and a Hawaiian lei for each participant. With the equipment we left behind, we also left them with sentiments of appreciation, gratitude, and love. Surfing became our common language, a language the world’s newest surfers understood wholly.

“Surfing brings peace to my country.”

“Surfing is my best friend.”

From a timid doubt, arose a confident choice to go and without a moment of regret I whole heartily proclaim, it was worth it!

For more information on Surfing the Nations and their initiatives, be sure to check out their website.

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