In an annoyingly-introspective sense, big, arching turns that throw buckets of water over the backs of waves are…well, in my mind they’re settling. Not to be confused with “settling,” as an adjective synonymous with “comforting,” but in the sense of the word that means to compromise for a little less than what one actually wants.
Sure, a great turn feels good. It’s fun and all. But they’re always going to be second banana to that moment you see a wave stand ever so slightly more vertical right in front of you, tucking yourself just so as it all moves a little faster, and oh look, yeah, that’s water flying over my head now.
Given the choice between a frontside hack and the teeniest of hollow head dippers, you’re going to choose the barrel eight days a week. Want to argue with me? Watch any surfer do either of the two and see which one gets hoots throughout the lineup every time. Turns are everyday occurrences — the things we do to, and with, waves when they’re not shaped like hollow cylinders with water spitting out the end.
So with all that said, here’s Brad Norris never making a turn. I’m sure he’s great at them. I’m sure his put most of mine to shame. But who cares when you’re getting barreled this often around West Oz?
