The Inertia

“Desierto,” the Spanish word for desert, describes a large landscape where little precipitation occurs and consequently, living conditions are hostile for plant and animal life. That may be exactly what Sr. Adrien Toyon was thinking about when he received this phone call:

“Hey, Adrien. Good swell on the way. We’ll be going to Desert Point.”

“Ok, my man. Never been there before so perfect,” he replied.

“Desierto” could also describe the two days Adrien spent getting there from France. And “Desierto” could even describe all the time Adrien spent waiting for his first chance at that wave. It could even stand for Desert Point, which isn’t the easiest wave to get to or the easiest wave to predict, but it’s probably the best wave on earth if what you’re looking for are big, long barrels.

 
Newsletter

Only the best. We promise.

Contribute

Join our community of contributors.

Apply