
While Southern California has always been a bit of a logger’s paradise, that sentiment is extra-true these days. In the grip of a months-long flat spell, punctuated by tiny, short-lived bumps on the horizon, the log has become an irreplaceable component in any surfer’s quiver. At the Katakai Fishing Port in Chiba, Japan, Shitoh Shigenaki hauls out a 9’6 to greet a swell that was a long time coming.
Beauty log -good wave from LAZY BOY SKILL on Vimeo.