Photo: Shutterstock
Standing alone, overlooking one of the more consistent breaks I knew, I was amazed by how far out the tide could actually go. Behind me on this small stretch of the Pacific Marine Highway cars filled with a variety of loggers while other locals passed on their way up to either Port Renfrew or the all-too-many job sites nearby. Once in a while another surfer drove by with their boards strapped to the tops of their vehicles. They probably weren’t driving all the way to Renfrew though. This stretch of coast is littered with small, remote and secret spots. I was standing on the edge of the small logging town of Jordan River and my solitude was more than good luck. It was pretty stellar proof that I was, of all things, an idiot.
I’m not really a kook. Well, at least I’ve never actually been called one. But at that moment, alone on a Friday at one of Victoria’s more accessible spots, I felt like a kook. It was the excitement of being able to actually drive to a surf spot and the promise of an early-morning swell that really did it. So pumped at the promise of an early-day session I’d left without even looking at a tide chart.
Getting back into the van I looked at my board in the back and the deafening semi-emptiness of the cargo bay. With nothing else to do, I took some time to enjoy being out of the city, on the ocean, with the white-capped Olympic Mountains across the straight in Washington. Having lived in Montreal for the past two years, far away from the ocean, I’m still blown away by the beauty of the Pacific Northwest. I’m also still blown away by the fact I can drive a little more than an hour and be in the water.
At high tide.
Sure, the tide was coming in; it was just going to take a little while. I had heaps of time. Climbing into the back of the van I sat on a camping stool next to my dry board to watch the swell build without having to stand in the wind. Pulling out my cell phone I made sure that there was no signal before tossing it on to my wetsuit. “I wish I’d brought my guitar,” I said to no one. “Or a book.”
Taking stock, all I had with me other than surfing necessities was the disaster kit my partner and I had prepped. You see, two of the things that you don’t need to think about when living in Montreal are earthquakes and tsunamis. Being new to the coast, one of the first things we did was learn about the hazards of living in a geologically unstable area and prepare for the worst (my partner a little more serious than myself). Looking over the sleeping bag, box of dried and canned food, and small stove, I realized that there was another list that could help me prepare for a much more real threat. Picking up my phone again I started to write:
…Disaster Preparedness Kit
1. A musical instrument
Even if you’re just learning, waiting around for a few hours is a great opportunity to work on your chops, learn a new song, or write your next album. I prefer ripping off Jack Johnson songs and singing them to the sea, pretending I’m deep, and pretending I can sing.
2. Something to read
I’m a book dude, and I always try to learn everything I can about where I live and the things that interest me. Sitting alone in a van is a great time to get into the rich cultural or natural history of your region. Some good ones I’m going to keep in the van for now are Be Of Good Mind: Essays on the Coast Salish by Bruce Granville Miller (UBC Press, 2011) and The Encyclopedia of Surfing by Matt Warshaw (2005). If you have an internet connection, then why not brush up (if you’re a kook, or just new to surfing) on etiquette and other things you might need to get used to your local break? All without causing crap and bringing yourself unneeded static.
3. A good pair of shoes.
Surfing is an awesome way to connect with and spend time in nature. Breaks are also often close to some fantastic hiking trails, super cool beaches and other natural wonders worth exploring. Sitting there that day with only my canvas surfsiders, I was wishing for my hiking boots or even a pair of shoes that wouldn’t melt on a trail.
4. Snacks a little bit of humor.
Photo: Shutterstock.
Who are we kidding? Snacking is a great way to pass the time. Especially when it’s with mood-boosting snacks and foods. Trying to stay optimistic about your reality, enjoying the fact that you’re not in the office, or at home vacuuming can help keep you from getting grumpy and bored. If you see other people who made the same mistake you did, go out there and get chatting. Maybe even share your snacks. Bringing a good vibe to the break goes a long way.
5. An accurate tide chart
I learned my lesson. Already printed one and put it in the van.
