Scenes like this one in Portugal make it all worth it. Photo: Daniel Schwarz//Unsplash
“I take to the open road. Healthy, free, the world before me,” said mid-length stalwart Walt Whitman. Meanwhile, Jack Kerouac, when looking for a secret slab on the West Coast said, “Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road.” While attaching these two literary heavyweights to surfing is obviously a joke, their quotes ring true to the hardiest amongst us.
Surfing and road trips have been around since the Romans invented the bloody things. Nothing gives you the freedom of an iron steed, a few boards, a mate or two, and a quest for waves. Yet not all road trips are created equal. We trawled the globe for a handful of the most tried and tested routes that will deliver waves, adventure, good times (the odd bad time) and memories forever. Buckle up!
Yes, Ireland is that beautiful. Photo: Unknown
Sligo to Portrush, Ireland
Distance: 300 miles (but long and windy)
When: September to November, as the swell arrives, but before winter does.
Why: In the last few weeks we’ve seen images and clips pouring in from Ireland, as many of the world’s best tube hounds hit Ireland as prime season kicks in. To recreate that magic, start in the surf town of Bundoran. This offers the consistent wave of The Peak, but there are soft beachbreaks and heavy slabs within a 10-mile radius, as well as the big-wave spot of Mullaghmore Bay. Heading up the N15, hit the remote North Donegal region, where the scenery is as unbelievable as the surfing. Aim for the quaint villages of Dunfanaghy or Downing, and Killahoey Beach. Finish up in the seaside tourist town of Portrush which has a friendly and buzzing surf community and more than its fair share of good waves. Whiterocks is a good place to start, while Troggs Surf Shop will hand over all the equipment and local knowledge you need.
Where: Bundoran is the surf capital of Ireland, while Rossnowlagh and Culfarff are two other surfing hubs in County Donegal. Away from the surf, Glenveagh National Park, once a private estate, encompasses forests, lakes and bogland in the Derryveagh Mountains. And just a half-hour’s drive east of Portrush is The Giant’s Causeway, a stunning coast that is Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and where key scenes in Game of Thrones were filmed.
WPM (Waves per mile): 7/10 (two bonus points for the pints of Guinness, but subtract one for having wetsuits that will never, ever dry).
This awaits you after a road trip from Sydney to the Gold Coast. But there’s plenty in between. Photo: Juan Medina
Sydney to the Gold Coast, Australia
Distance: 750 miles (plus detours)
When: Between December and June
Why: With over 12,000 miles of coastline, Australia has more road trips than kangaroos, meat pies and galahs. Perth to Margaret River is worth a drive, Victoria’s Great Ocean Road is world famous and Sydney to Bells, taking in the waves on the NSW south coast, is an iconic four-wheel mission.
Yet none tick all the boxes of one of the great surfing pilgrimages which is the trip from Sydney to the Gold Coast. The aptly named Pacific Highway traces the coast for 600-odd miles, and with the smallest of deviations you can choose between empty beaches that stretch endlessly, iconic surf breaks, quiet off-grid surf towns and hyped-hubs like Byron Bay and Coolangatta. You can take two weeks, or two years, depending on your vibe, visa and income streams.
Where: The beachbreaks of Pacific Palms offer the clearest water and punchiest beachbreaks on the coast. Heading north Crescent Head is a gold-plated longboarders’ dream, while Angourie and Lennox Head are, rightly rated as two of the world’s best point breaks. That just leaves the Gold Coast, for the parties, and a secret spot called the Superbank.
WPM Rating (Waves Per Mile): 9/10
The pot of gold at the end of the road trip. Photo: Deon Lategan
Cape Town to Jeffreys Bay, South Africa
Distance: 420 miles
When: March to September
Why: We tinkered with including Durban to Cape Town, as an option, but figured the 1,130 miles might be a stretch too far. The first half of that journey from Durban to Jeffreys Bay was another stellar option. Yet Cape Town’s incredible scenery, culture, wildness and incredible (cold water) waves swung the argument. That this trip also includes the Garden Route, one of the world’s best-known drives, dotted with empty pointbreaks and even emptier beachbreaks was another factor. And then there’s the pot of gold at the end, Jeffreys Bay, one of the world’s premier waves and a fun, surf town to hang.
Where: Mossel Bay is a beautiful arc of coast with fun waves. Wilderness and Kynsa offer oysters, scenery and great vibes. Plettenberg Bay is a surf town with soul, and once in Jeffreys Bay, hit Cape St. Francis and Seals Beach for mellower crowds.
WPM: 8/10 (though the scenery gets it a bonus point)
Lisbon To Porto, Portugal
Distance: 315 km
When: September to December
Why: While a relatively shorter trip than the ones above, in terms of prime waves per mile, it rates on the higher end of the scale. Within 45 minutes of the capital Lisbon lie the surf hubs of Cascais, Caparica and Ericeira. Each offers world-class reefs, points and beachies and plenty of sun. To the north lies Peniche, a peninsula that provides rideable waves 365 days of the year, and a surf infrastructure to match. Nazare is one of the world’s geographical marvels and a must-watch, rather than a must-surf. To the north of the country, the surf hubs of Figereia de Foz and Espinho are underrated gems. Porto offers a classy, sophisticated and historical bookend to a road trip that has it all.
Where: Ericeira and Peniche are iconic surf towns for a reason, and though well known, one still needs time to explore their waves and culture. Nazare’s waves will blow your mind, but the fishing town offers its own charms and great seafood. Oh, and for an inland treat, head to Doura, east of Porto, the charming wine region of Portugal.
WPM: 12/10
