The Inertia

The water is still warm, the leaves are falling and most importantly there are WAVES. As a surfer and photographer I had to choose whether to get the drop of my life or to capture it.

I was walking on the beach with my board ready for a surf when I saw what seemed like miles of barrels. All of the sudden the wind changed direction and moved offshore. I could feel the hot sand hit my back, the wind brush through my hair and the refreshing sea mist land on my face. At that moment I knew I had to drop by board and grab the camera.

During the shoot I was able to capture the fun and excitement these surfers had. We all felt like children again. Ventura hasn’t had any decent waves in a few weeks, therefore we were all stoked to see surfable sets. The weather was warm, the wind was brewing and the waves were firing. Overall, a joyful day in Ventura, CA.

 
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