Shortly after my twenty-first birthday, a cyclone swell was gracing the East Coast of Australia. Unfortunately, I wiped out at Kirra Beach and hit a sand bank, leaving me nearly paralyzed. It was at this moment that I began to focus on capturing the ocean in all its glory. Being stuck on the beach, I began capturing my friends surfing the majestic vortexes that traveled from far away. Shortly after a solid twelve months out of the water, I was able to jump back in and join my mates. But this time, I had my camera in hand. Ever since then, I’ve continued to document the coast life and surfing.
An obsession that was unable to be stopped soon turned into winning several international awards and recognition in national competitions. I started off shooting my friends surfing and bodyboarding. Lately, I’ve been focusing on ocean art and shorebreak photography. I now aim to deliver quality art to people who love the ocean as much as I do.
Here is a collection of some of my latest work, as well as a piece of poetry written by a good friend of mine, Stevie Lloyd.
I pull into the familiar car park and it’s dark. The headlights over the Seaway seem to guide my way over to the island I want to reach. It’s been a long time. Perhaps too long. The wind is suspect and conditions aren’t ideal. It leaves an empty scenario and I anticipate filling it’s void. 5 foot and 9 inches of fiberglass and I are about to form a bond. A friendship so deep no one, yet everyone can understand.
I paddle into the darkness and see a fin. Yet I feel calm. I see another fin and finally a pod of them and I’m thankful to share the ocean with dolphins. Before I reach the rock wall there is a rainbow lighting up the North. I look behind me and see a storm. Perfect.
My feet run along the empty islands shore, like so many times before. A decade ago I was riding a piece of foam. Times change. I nosedive my first wave. I laugh and hoot at an empty left hander grinding it’s way in front of the pipe as I paddle back out. I blow my next wave. I realize I am getting old and my body won’t allow me to surf the way my mind portrays.
The next wave I take off deep. My body naturally arches into the oceans lump as it pitches. I look around the barrel and turn on the shoulder, with as much control as my new relationship will allow me to. I ride the wave to shore. Walk. Admire. Paddle. As I make my way back to the car I forgot to lock, a human walking a dog gives me a friendly wave. G’day mate.
I would surf naked if it wasn’t for my embarrassingly small genitalia and society’s views. I open the car, listen to my favorite band and write this terribly long status. The day has just started. But my love for the ocean is stronger than ever and I contemplate my next decision…
To see more of Jon’s awesome artwork, check out his website or follow him on Instagram and Facebook.
