I started surfing when I was 12. The year was 1995 and I was in 6th grade. A trip to Honolulu, a massive rental board (that was probably just a re-purposed lifeguard paddleboard), and a session that changed my life.
Good Times was the hot new surf flick, the …Lost team were absolute maniacs, “The Pickle” had just been announced, O’Fish’l was the premiere interchangeable fin system, and Quiksilver corduroy pants were super cool. Surfing was much different for me then. It was EVERYTHING. And I ripped! Or at least I thought ripped. I’ll never forget the first time I banked off the whitewash, or leaned into my heel edge and cranked a turn. I really thought I ripped.
But now, I watch this edit of 12-year-old Jackson Bunch and I realize that I certainly did not rip. My little foam bounce had nothing on a tail-high air reverse. And compared to this kid’s man-turns, my rail work probably looked like I was having a seizure. These days, the level of surfing coming from such small people is astounding to me. No more chop-hops in the whitewash for these dudes (and girls). They’re onto bigger and better things. There’s nowhere for these groms to go, but up.
Anyway, my point being simply this: Jackson Bunch is 12 years old. He rips. Press play.
WATERLINE from Sack Lunch Productions on Vimeo.
