Continued…
#6 Given that our industry has an obsession with “cult status” and paying for potential rather than accomplishment, it’s clear that some of your current contemporaries on tour have been groomed as the “next Kelly Slater” since their early teens. Now that they’re finding themselves in the mid-to-late-20s with no titles (as you continue to rack them up) do you feel like they’re vulnerable to crumbling somewhat psychologically from failing to deliver on expectation?
There is more pressure today. I talked about it with regards to Kolohe (Andino) at the last event, but he’s one of many who’ve been dealt that hand because they’re great surfers with lots of potential. Winning events is psychological and spiritual and intelligence as much as it is talent driven. Michel (Bourez)‘s two wins this year remind me of Danny Wills’ steely determination in ’98 having never won an event then winning back-to-back weeks in Japan. It was insane. But when you’re mind is in the right place and you have belief in yourself and no outside chatter, things come together. That’s the spirituality and zen of competing.
I see guys carrying around personal issues all the time that they do or don’t realize either cause them to win or lose, and the result usually gets compounded by people telling them they either got ripped off or were destined for this moment. Don’t believe any of it. We’re all meant to live big and great lives but not enough people connect with that and understand or believe it.
#7 MR had a dynasty (four titles), Curren had a dynasty (three titles) Andy had a dynasty (three titles), Mick recently secured his own place in history (three titles) and yours is well cemented at 11. Is there any surfer currently on tour whom you could realistically see clinching three or more titles?
JJF (John John Florence (HAW)) and (Gabriel) Medina are destined for greatness based on ability. (Filipe) Toledo is the best small wave air guy I have ever seen. There are a lot of really talented guys coming up. We’ll see if they can bring all the necessary personal decisions and beliefs together and professional pressures into context to handle the expectations they and others have on them.
I’m a kid from a small town of [terrible] waves. I had a strong belief I’d get myself out of this little life here to a big place and do things I could imagine. If everyone did that, the people we think have done great things would be envious of all the amazing things going on around them with other people every day. People are too caught up in problems and food and drugs and issues to become the best versions of themselves. You just simply can’t listen to other people telling you what to do (unless it’s your parents and you’re a kid, but they can be way off base also!).
These guys I’ve mentioned need to apply the same approach to heats that they already have to riding waves the way they do and I think they’re doing that. Contests are just contests and they don’t really mean anything in the big scope of the world but they are small indicators of how you are implementing your skills in a tangible way. Some people call me obsessive or driven or lucky or whatever. I’m all of those things. Shouldn’t we all be? We are dynamic creatures. We’ve gotta use all those moods to achieve things in life.
#8 Would you consider Fiji one of your strongest events on tour? Is it a venue that you could remain competitive at for several years to come?
I feel at home in Fiji and when things come together I feel like I could be competitive there forever. The waves do most of the work for you, you just need to fit into it properly and pick the right ones. Experience has won me events there for sure a few times.
#9 When most people reach for step-up boards (6’3″s, 6’6″s, etc.), your tendency is to grab a 5’9″. What’s the theory behind this and why don’t you think more of the Top 34 do the same?
I can’t talk about that…
#10 Could Kelly Slater be satisfied by walking away from full-time competition without ASP World Title No. 12?
It’s frustrating that I won three events both of those years (2012, 2013) at good locations in good waves and ended up losing the title. I think we should really contemplate the “majors” idea for quality wave locations and put emphasis in those places. That being said, I’m stoked. I’ve had an amazing career and life and am not crying about anything I don’t have. I have been given plenty of great things and opportunities in life. A twelfth might just be worth fighting for and have more meaning if it happens.
I’ve been one heat away, and more likely, one single scoring ride away from three world titles in my career. That’s how it goes in life and in sport. If it’s all only about the end game and the result then just don’t bother trying ’cause you’re gonna fail ’cause we all have things to learn. When you lose, that’s where you find things you haven’t learned yet. And when you lose you find out who your good friends are. And when you win, the people most upset are the ones who really don’t care about you.
